Where did you grow up? I haven't yet, but spent the formative years in New Jersey... Exit # 122.
Where do you live now? Basalt, Colorado.
What is your rock climbing experience? Extensive, especially considering those 'Early' days before Cams and sticky rubber.
What is your training background? I'm dependent on my impressive reputation more than my current ability... but, hey...that works for most clients! I am fully AMGA/IFMGA certified and past President of the AMGA from 2000-2005. I have also attended many IFMGA international mountain guide meetings since 2001, which truly enhances this camaraderie I've referred to.
Where do you guide? I own and operate Aspen Expeditions located at the Aspen Highlands in Aspen, Colorado. So that's home base, but I tend to travel with clients all over the world. Ski guiding has been my greater strength in more recent years though.
What is your favorite part about this job? For me, the interaction between Mountain Guides, either American or International is really fun and dynamic!
Most gripping or scary time on a climb? Passing bolts on the Glacier Point Apron and a certain leader-fall using only the Red 2-inch webbing Swami belt (no leg loops). Many climbers won't know what this refers to, but perhaps that's the point(?).
What success are you most proud of? Certainly more in the Alpine Discipline, with several New Routes and hard climbs in the Alps...plus early trips to Nepal, with or without successful summits, but certainly "round-trips" indeed.
What makes you a good guide? Knowing and respecting the needs of the client, along with many years of guiding experience. Just a reminder, formal training and certification allows one to be a very 'good' guide. Add many years of experience and that enables one to become a 'great' guide.
What is the most important part about being a guide? A mountain guide is both a 'Role Model' and a representative of the international peer group that supports mutual respect and a common life-style.
What type of climbing is your favorite? Why? Alpine, because I have learned (and accepted) to suffer! Not that I crave or enjoy suffering, but it is an all-important ingredient in becoming a good Alpine climber.
Where is your favorite climbing destination? Why? I'm still looking, but Alaska is hard to beat, eh?
Why should a climber hire a guide? Hiring a guide is a wonderful luxury for any climber, regardless of strength or ability...like getting a massage after a day of heli-skiing. It's a time to relax and indulge in the vertical realm with the opportunity to learn a few subtle tricks of the trade. I would never turn down the opportunity...like informal 'continued education'!
What advice do you have for climbers who hire guides? Take advantage of this opportunity and 'milk' out every bit of "guiding" skills you can in the time spent together...which, of course, includes sharing a pint or two apres-climbing.
How can customers prepare for a guided expedition? The pre-expedition communication often determines the relative likelihood for success, however one measures 'success'. Physical fitness commensurate with the intended goal is mandatory, along with a realistic level of commitment that accounts for some degree of objective danger we all face in the mountain. The relationship and rapport between guide and client is quite unique and not to be taken lightly, either from a professional perspective or a personal one.
Where do you recommend that rock climbers travel with guides? Most anywhere, as a qualified guide should be capable of guiding 'on-sight' as well as on routes that are totally wired. Part of the shared 'adventure' side of this relationship is to search out new terrain, cultures and challenges.
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