Guide Profile: Amos Mac Whiting of Aspen Expeditions
Age? 32
Where did you grow up?
The island of Martha’s Vineyard off the coast of Massachusetts.
Where do you live now?
Old Snowmass, outside of Aspen Colorado.
What is your rock climbing experience?
I have been rock climbing for 18 years at most major areas in the US, including Yosemite, Red Rocks, Moab/Indian Creek, North Conway NH, throughout Arizona, Colorado and many other areas. I have climbed in Italy, France, Switzerland, Mexico, Peru, Thailand, and my recent favorite Mallorca Spain. Some personal highlights are the second and mostly free ascents of Lobo Este Pario grade VI A3 5.11+ Peru. Astro Dog V 5.12- Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP. Fox Trot III 5.11+ Mill Creek UT FA. When in shape I can onsite 5.12- sport or trad and redpoint 5.12+ or V6-V8 bouldering.
What is your training background? The best training for climbing is to climb. During climbing season I try to climb outside around four days per week. I will also do a day or two of alpine climbing or guiding to keep my cardio strong as well. Flexibility has always helped my climbing. I make sure to keep limber through 2-3 yoga or stretching sessions per week. In the winter I have started training for ice and mixed climbing by climbing indoors with mountain boots to improve core strength and foot work.
Where do you guide?
My home town is Aspen CO, so much of my guiding is based here. This includes ice and ski guiding, avalanche educations courses, and ski guide training courses. In the summer I spend some of my time rock guiding in perfect temps with no crowds on Independence Pass, or guiding classic alpine routes up the famous Maroon Bells.
When I’m not in Aspen, guiding takes me to many different venues in the US and abroad. Spring ski touring, rock climbing and classic alpine routes in the European Alps normally take a month or two of my year. Rock climbing throughout the US, Moab UT and Boulder CO being regular haunts. Much of my guiding career was in the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado, home to some of the best ice climbing (like Ouray) in the US. I have guided a number of seasons in Peru in the Cordillera Blanca, as well as Mexico volcanoes. I have new clients interested in climbing the 7 summits, and will probably do some of those with them.
As an IFMGA guide I am able to travel and guide all over the world and I look forward to seeing and experiencing new places.
What is your favorite part about this job? Working with return clients and seeing them grow as climbers, skiers or mountaineers and witnessing how it improves their lives. I have been with some of my clients for 10 + years and we have been through many adventures together. Working with an individual or a family to attain their goals, whether it is to help a teenager train for a bouldering competition or prepare people to climb classic mountains like the Matterhorn.
Most gripping or scary time on a climb?
While guiding a long time client along the classic traverse of the Maroon Bells outside of Aspen we had an electrifying experience. After the four thousand foot snow climb of the Y couloir, we arrived on the summit of South Maroon Peak and were running about 45 minutes behind schedule. With a look at the mountains and the sky to the west and a call back to base I made the decision to continue on the traverse to North Maroon Peak. After dropping to the saddle between the peaks and climbing in mixed fifth class terrain we were traversing up onto the ridge when I heard a distinct buzzing sound. With no clouds directly above us I was confused by the source of the sound. Due to the client’s pace I was carrying two sets of crampons, two ice axes, four snow pickets, and two ski poles. My client, Bert, looked at me and said, “Amos, look at your hair.” At which moment I looked at his to see his wispy, white hair curling under his helmet and pointing straight at the sky. I quickly dumped all the metal from my pack on the ridge and short-roped Bert down onto the west face of North Maroon where we sat on our packs in lighting position, and watched as a number of lightning strikes hit the ridge where we’d just descended from.
What success are you most proud of?
Being a good husband to my wife, Jordan and the privilege I have of calling the mountains my office.
What makes you a good guide?
The fact that I am a climber and skier first and a guide second makes me a good guide. My personal passion for adventure in the mountains is paramount and while working with clients or students I strive to share that passion while instilling commitment to safety, adventure and fun. My B.A. in Adventure Education from Prescott College, and my experience as an instructor educator supports my technical IFMGA guide certification which allows for a holistic approach to guiding and teaching.
What is the most important part about being a guide?
When I teach guide training courses for the American Mountain Guides Association I have a motto: Safety, efficiency and comfort. This should always be a guide’s order of priorities, although depending on the client and the situation, comfort and efficiency can be interchangeable.
What type of climbing is your favorite? Why?
As a full mountain guide, I enjoy and appreciate all types of mountain movement. One of personal favorites is desert splitters, like those found in Indian Creek UT, for their pure aesthetic beauty and simplicity. My most recent love affair has been with deep water soloing, preferably golden lime stone over the warm Med in Mallocra, Spain.
Why should a climber hire a guide?
Good question. I guide families with no experience, who I am introducing to the rewarding world of climbing, and successful professionals who climbs 5.12 and just want someone to pick the best routes for them, lead them to the crags and keep them safe. A guide not only is a expert climber (they are familiar with the latest techniques, rescue and first aid skills), they also have local connections and can organize and are great at onsiting the logistics involved in traveling to new areas.
What advice do you have for climbers who hire guides?
I feel like there is a bit of a stigma for climbers hiring guides in the US, and that people feel you are less of a climber if you higher a guide. Whereas in Europe, which has a history of climbing hundreds of years old, climbers have always hired guides, and still do. When hiring a guide, one should be sure the guide is certified by the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) and/or the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA). This insures that the guide has completed the only international standard for mountain guides.
How can customers prepare for a guided expedition?
Be realistic about what you want to experience or achieve. Be honest with your guide about your personal abilities, fitness and experience and ask for advice on how to train and prepare for your upcoming trip.
Where do you recommend that rock climbers travel with guides?
I think a great time to hire a guide is anytime traveling away from home when you don’t know the area. This way you can experience different landscape and culture while you allow the guide to negotiate all the logistical details that can often be a hassle when simply trying to enjoy the mountains. At the same time your guide keeps you safe, comfortable and takes you to the best lines.
Come climb with me and Aspen Expeditions and you will experience amazing featured granite combined with the spectacular views and perfect temps allowing ideal sending conditions. The empty cliffs only fifteen minutes from a world class resort town offer the perfect combination of adventure and luxury.
If you are itching for an international adventure the endless rock spires of the Italian Dolomites will scratch that itch. Enjoy everything from single pitch sport routes to twenty pitch adventure climbs, Via Ferrata routes on rest days and delectable Northern Italian cuisine.
Finally, Spanish limestone is not to be missed. My personal favorite is the island of Mallorca, full of history, warm water and perfect rock.
Visit: aspenexpeditions.com and amoswhitingmtnguide.com for more information.
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