Guide Profile: Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow Expeditions
Alpenglow Expeditions was founded by Adrian Ballinger in 2004 after he worked for nearly a decade as head guide and director of one of the largest international guide services in the USA. Alpenglow Expeditions was created to combine our guides' passion for climbing big mountains with their desire to teach others.
What is the one thing about a guide’s life that most climbers will not know, or that isn’t obvious to an outside observer?
I do a lot of logistics. Even though I guide almost 8 months out of the year, when I come home, I am shackled to my computer just like everyone else. It is a lot of work.
What is a place you would most like to travel to that you have not been to? Pakistan.
Why did you choose to be a professional climbing guide? When did you make this choice?
One thing led to another and I just couldn’t stop guiding long enough to start my real job.
Favorite type of climbing?
Whatever my next trip demands. Truly.
What is the toughest part of guiding? Leaving my wife.
What is your favorite climbing area?
Where ever I am going next. Truly.
What’s on your iPod/in your cd player/in your vinyl collection? Latest Playlist: Sia, Cold War Kids, Feist, Kate Nash, Bing Crosby, Jose Gonzalez, Stars, Nizlopi, Wagon Christ, Placebo, Keane, Sufjan Stevens
What is your favorite route to guide, and why? Ama Dablam, SW Ridge (in the Khumbu region of Nepal) because the entire route dances along a technical knife edge ridge combining stellar rock and ice pitches and great exposure. And since we fix the entire route, each climber can be truly independent while climbing this route.
Favorite hobby or hobbies outside of climbing? Skiing, Kitesurfing, and eating.
What was the best decision of your life? Persuading my college sweetheart to marry me.
Guide Profile: Pete Keane of Timberline Mountain Guides Inc.
Age? 44
Where did you grow up?
On a Farm in New Jersey.
Where do you live now?
Bend, Oregon.
What is your rock climbing experience?
I started top roping in 1982. I learned to lead in northern New Hampshire at Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges. This area gives me an appreciation of what we now call “Trad Ethics”, although I didn’t know it at the time.
What is your training background?
I graduated with a BS in Geology from the University of New Hampshire in 1986. I began my guiding career in 1989. Now, I have made it most of the way through the AMGA Guide training program by earning my certifications as Rock and Alpine Guide. Currently, I am going through the ski program.
Where do you guide? I guide all over the Pacific Northwest- what I consider my home turf.
What is your favorite part about this job? I enjoy being in high places and taking folks who need guidance to these places so that they can enjoy themselves.
Most gripping or scary time on a climb? I think it was on the Harvard Route on Mt Huntington in Alaska. I was leading on thin ice with a pack on and the ice collapsed and I whipped big. Luckily, I landed on a big pile of soft snow on a ledge. When I climbed back up, I had broken the eye off the piton I was clipped into. If the snow wasn’t there to stop me, who knows what would have happened.
What success are you most proud of? Being a father. I have two young sons who continually amaze me, even when they are driving me nuts!
What makes you a good guide?
Most of my regular clients would probably say that I am laid back, easy to get along with, and choose great objectives for their trips.
What is the most important part about being a guide? Having patience and enjoying climbing for other people, not for yourself. Good guides must constantly examine why they are in the profession, and must continually question their motivations for doing so.
What type of climbing is your favorite? Why? Alpine climbing is my favorite type of climbing, with my second favorite type of climbing being long rock routes. I love the feeling of doing long routes with only the essential items on my back. The wide range of skills required for adventures of this type gives me a great sense of satisfaction. Being on rock high above a glacier should be experienced by all climbers at some point in their careers if they want to be well rounded.
Where is your favorite climbing destination? Why? The North Cascades National Park (!); one of the only ranges in the US that has true glaciation and spectacular climbing objectives.
Why should a climber hire a guide? Climbers can advance themselves rapidly if they choose to hire guides to learn from. It is possible to learn things all on your own, but it can take a great amount of time.
What advice do you have for climbers who hire guides?
If you are already an active climber, choose a specific climbing goal, or a technical skill set and practice, practice, practice. Then, hire a guide to go out with you to fine tune these skills or achieve the goals that you have set for yourself.
How can customers prepare for a guided expedition? People always say “Get in Shape” and the going will be much easier. While this is true, you must also re-adjust your thinking to become more flexible and to realize there are many ways to accomplish the goal at hand. If you are stuck in the mindset that things can only get done one way, you are not as open as you need to be.
Where do you recommend that rock climbers travel with guides? Certainly, Red Rocks in Nevada. Some of the descents can be pretty tricky, and it’s more like Desert Mountaineering than anything else. The moment you leave the sport crags there, Red Rocks becomes an awesome, yet serious playground.
Guide Profile: Markus Beck of Alpine World Ascents
Markus Beck and the team at Alpine World Ascents (alpineworldascents.com; Boulder, Colorado) are dedicated — dedicated to the rock, to nature, and to the hundreds of clients they serve every year. Like many of the guides working with Alpine World Ascents, Beck- head guide and owner- is highly qualified, with both AMGA and IFMGA certifications, as well as numerous climbing, skiing, and snowboarding credentials. Whether he’s leading one-day climbs in Eldorado Canyon or 28-day tours of the Khumbu region of Nepal, Beck has a range of mountain knowledge and is fluent in six languages allowing him to customize a unique experience for his clients.
What is the one thing about a guide’s life that most climbers won’t know? A good guide is a 100 percent dedicated to his/her clients — obviously in regards to safety, but also in regards to quality of experience, comfort, and client interest.
Why did you choose to guide? Born and raised in Switzerland, I was exposed to guides — their way of life, their status — at a young age; it instilled in me a huge respect and admiration. I always loved being outdoors. Formerly a Masters in education, I love working with people, helping them accomplish things. In 1999, at age 31, I made the choice of getting the proper training and certifications and made my passion for the mountains my profession. Joining a greatly respected group of individuals that live a simple, hard worker’s life, and calling the outdoors my office, has definitively turned out to be my calling.
What is your favorite type of climbing? It’s in the variety: rock, snow, ice, alpine, ski, snowboard, high and low altitudes, difficult or not, demanding or leisurely… just say no to pulling down on plastic or sport climbing (OK, busted: I have been photographed doing that).
What’s the toughest part of guiding? Staying healthy (mostly because 200-plus back-to-back work-days in the field take a toll)
What was the worst decision of your life? Forgetting that extra pair of undies on a hard climb
What was the best decision of your life? Other than choosing my chosen profession? To breathe every day.
Home Base: Boulder, Colorado
Offers: Classes and guiding in rock climbing, ice climbing, alpine mountaineering, ski touring and mountaineering, and avalanche education. Guided trips to Europe, Canada, Himalayas, Central & South America, and across the United States including Alaska. Specializing in custom designing their services.
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