Guide Profile: Ryan Waters of Mountain Professionals

Age? 35.

Where did you grow up?
Marietta, GA about 20 miles from Atlanta and thankfully close to the Appalachian Mountains.

Where do you live now?
Boulder, CO is the base, but I have spent quite a lot of time living in Argentina and other parts of South America for the past several years. Kathmandu feels like a 3rd home as well sometimes.

What is your rock climbing experience?
I started rock climbing at age 18 and was fully interested in all aspects of mountaineering from that point on. I learned the basics, very slowly before the true age of rock gyms and picked things up bit by bit from the guys in the southeast who had been climbing for a long time. I eventually gained institutional guiding and instructing experience as a head climber for Outward Bound and then moved into mountaineering instruction and guiding.

What is your training background?
I have trained in rock site management, self and team rescue techniques, all types of glacier management and rescue working for several schools and guide services, as well as American Avalanche Level 2 certification.

Where do you guide?
I have been fortunate to guide in some of the best locations on the planet, primarily the Himalayas and Andes. A lot of my experience comes from instructing mountaineering courses and guiding in the Andes of Argentina, Chile, and Ecuador as well as the Cascades and Rockies in the USA. I have led ten expeditions, almost all to 8,000 meter peaks, in Pakistan, Nepal, and Tibet with multiple trips to Everest, Cho Oyu, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum 2, and more.

What is your favorite part about this job?
The lifestyle that this career allows me to lead. I worked as a geologist for almost 4 years full time, and while it was fun and rewarding, I could not get past the 9-5 forty hour weeks and 2 weeks vacation a year lifestyle. With guiding, I have not worried about what day of the week it is or fretted over time-off in almost 10 years. I enjoy working with folks from all walks of life and from different countries. Seeing them reach a summit, learn a new skill, or attain some other goal is the most rewarding part of this job.

Most gripping or scary time on a climb?
I would have to say watching a monster avalanche coming down directly for my tent while climbing Pumo Ri in Nepal. We had positioned the tents on a ridge out of direct danger so any release would skirt us on both sides down shoots, and that is exactly what happened, but for a moment there ... not a fun feeling!

What success are you most proud of?
Making a go of it with our own company is very rewarding. It is a special feeling to realize a trip from the first phone call or email all the way through to a great climb with our clients. Having safe trips is also something I am very proud of, I have seen my share of injuries or been involved with rescues of fellow climbers, but I personally have been part of very safe and enjoyable expeditions and that is the most important aspect in the end.

What makes you a good guide?
I think a lot of my clients would say I am a pretty easy going but efficient and qualified leader. My specialty has been long expeditions where my broad background helps me handle all types of situations. I have instructed 78-day outdoor semesters with everything from rock climbing to sea kayaking with people of all ages, to guiding Everest and K2 expeditions, to one-day snow school programs. This helps you adapt to working with and alongside all kinds of clients and other guides.

What is the most important part about being a guide?
I have always considered managing safety is the most important aspect of being a guide. People are paying for your experience and judgment because you have been in that situation before. That is where spending a whole lot of time in the mountains and in different ranges (a broad base of experience) really pays off.

What type of climbing is your favorite? Why?
Mountaineering expeditions are to me the most rewarding. The culmination of travel to a remote location, carrying loads, building that framework for a summit attempt and realizing a goal. It can be a very rewarding team-feeling as well and often you work with many great local staffs such as Sherpas, Tibetans, or Pakistanis in the Himalayas which is a huge plus.

Where is your favorite climbing destination? Why?
Pakistan to me has the best mountains by far. The feeling of remoteness, the sheer visual appeal of the mountains, and the hard work that goes into climbing there is rewarding. But I think Nepal is my favorite overall location for the friends I have made, the welcoming feeling you get from the Nepali people and the many great memories. Although, I am about to go rock climbing on the beach in Italy for a week so maybe I better hold off on answering this one.

Why should a climber hire a guide?
I feel that hiring a guide can help insure safety and good judgment in the mountains. Often it can take a lot of stress out of a trip for the client as well. Let the guide bother with the logistics, planning and gear, so that the client can focus on having fun, learning some new skills, and enjoying the hills.

What advice do you have for climbers who hire guides?
Try to get the feel of a guide service or specific guide by calling them up or checking out their style by researching. There are many products out there these days and I can say with certainty that not all guides are necessarily suited to all types of expedition length or type of climbing.

How can customers prepare for a guided expedition?
Have the appropriate skills set, training, equipment and desire for the specific upcoming expedition. Book the trip and then let your guide service do the rest; that is what you pay for.

Where do you recommend that rock climbers travel with guides?
Any level of climber can learn and push their skill set with a guide. Try a long route, or a harder sport area and pick up new skills that you can bring to your own climbing.

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