Guide Profile: Ryan Stefiuk of Alpine Endeavors
Age? 30.
Where did you grow up?
In central New Jersey, major suburbia.
Where do you live now?
Marlborough Mass. I've taken a year off from full-time guiding to find out what it's like to work in a classroom as a science teacher.
What is your rock climbing experience?
I started rock climbing while I was in high school. We had a local crag nearby with tons of broken glass and graffiti. As soon as I found a more experience partner I started climbing in the Gunks, and have been climbing there and traveling to climb ever since. I have climbed extensively around the northeast (which I consider my home), the southeast (amazing rock climbing!) and in Yosemite.
What is your training background?
I am an AMGA Certified Rock Instructor, a member of the AMGA Single-Pitch Instructor pool, and have taken the AMGA Rock Guide Course and Alpine Guides Course.
Where do you guide?
I guide primarily in the northeastern U.S. and occasionally guide throughout the western United States.
What is your favorite part about this job?
Inspiring new climbers. There is nothing better than showing others what an amazing pursuit climbing can be and what a warm and engaging community the climbing community is. Being halfway around the world and unexpectedly running into someone you know is awesome, and it happens all the time as a climber.
Most gripping or scary time on a climb?
Watching your hands slowly slip off of your ice tools on hard mixed routes when you're totally red-lined. You're about to become a human missile and there's nothing you can do about it except remain calm and try to find good tool placements. It seems like most falls on mixed and ice terrain are upside down, making you a human projectile.
What success are you most proud of?
Becoming an accomplished ice and mixed climber. Successes in the world of ice and alpine climbing seems to come very slowly. The learning curve on rock is quite steep for many talented climbers, but on ice and alpine terrain experience and good judgment are the rule. It has taken years to learn how to climb big, long hard ice and mixed routes safely and confidently.
What makes you a good guide?
Patience, a friendly demeanor, and an unwavering enthusiasm for all types of climbing no matter how easy or difficult.
What is the most important part about being a guide?
Ensuring your safety and the safety of your clients, hands down. Risk management is what guiding and climbing is all about. You see a lot of very risky behavior out there, coming from inexperienced guides and recreational climbers. As a trained and experienced guide I try to mitigate the hazards for me and my clients. Having fun and getting to the top are important, but not if you're dead.
What type of climbing is your favorite? Why?
Ice and mixed climbing are my passion. While I enjoy all types of climbing, my intensity and focus is much greater when I am climbing ice. Leading ice climbs seems to be a little bit more serious than rock climbing, but I feel that the rewards are also greater. Ice is so temporary, and climbs are different on a yearly basis, so a climb that you did last year may be way different the following year.
Where is your favorite climbing destination? Why?
Newfoundland. Almost no one climbs there. There are 1000 ft. ice and rock routes there, and I can guarantee that you won't see any climbers. The people are so friendly and hospitable and the island is really beautiful. The juxtaposition of the mountains and the ocean nearly everywhere that you climb there is part of the allure. It's a hard spot to get to, but once you're on the island you won't regret it. However, the weather can be totally awful. Very heavy snow, rain, and wind.
Why should a climber hire a guide?
Guides have knowledge and experience, two things that beginner climbers don't have access to and recreational climbers may take a long time to gain. When you climb with a guide you can be reasonably certain that you are as safe as you can be, and that you are learning how to do things correctly right away. Big objectives, when climbed with inexperience partners or people you barely know but met in an online forum, are a recipe for an epic.
What advice do you have for climbers who hire guides?
Not all guides or guide services are created equal. Look for a guide service that has AMGA/IFMGA trained and certified guides on staff. As a professionally trained guide you are better prepared for many aspects of guiding, especially risk management and client care.
How can customers prepare for a guided expedition?
Fitness is a really important part of climbing for me. I am always trying to train for whatever discipline of climbing I'm doing at that moment. As a guide that means climbing a lot at work and on my spare time too. I also like to do quite a bit of running to maintain aerobic fitness as well. Maintaining a base level of aerobic fitness and physical conditioning is essential for climbing well, no matter who you are.
Where do you recommend that rock climbers travel with guides?
Anywhere there's rock to be climbed. Bigger or harder objectives are great to do with a guide as it will give you a better chance for success. Longer routes in areas like Red Rocks, NV, the Sierras, or Potrero Chico are ideal, but there are complex climbs at many cliffs in the U.S. that would be great to have a guide along for.
For more info visit: www.alpineendeavors.com
Enlarge
