Climbing

Ghosts, the Rock Gods, and Colombian Climbing
Story by Carole Lunny
Colombia is a country full of legends and myths, and Suesca, just 45 kilometres north of Bogotá, has its fair share of ghost tales, supernatural drumming, and flying witches. Suesca is a popular weekend destination for climbers of all levels. It is the best area in Colombia for both traditional and sport climbing, and boasts over 400 routes from 5.4 to 5.14. The walls are up to 125 metres high and follow the railway tracks and a small river.


Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival
On November 12-14 in Boulder, Colorado, the Fifth Annual Adventure Film Festival will premiere the most exciting and inspiring award-winning independent films from around the world. The festival is dedicated to all aspects of adventure — from serious exploration to environmental heroism to gripping tales from the edge of the believable. Visit: www.adventurefilm.org
 
2009 Yangshuo Climbing Festival
Following last year’s inaugural event, the Second Annual Yangshuo Climbing Festival, hosted by The North Face and Black Diamond, will be held from November 13 to 15, 2009. Once again, the Festival will bring together local and international climbers in one of Asia’s top sport climbing locations.
 
The Continuum Project - Trailer
Video by Chris Alstrin / alstrinfilms.com - Shot entirely in High Definition, watch as Guy Lacelle, Audrey Gariepy and Mathieu Audibert establish terrifying new ice routes in Norway and Rob Pizem and Mike Anderson crush brawny off-widths and delicate face climbing in Zion. Get on route with Ines Papert and Cory Richards as they blitz Kwangde Shar in Nepal and witness Majka Burhardt and Sarah Watson free the Beckey Route on Elephant’s Perch in the Sawtooths. Discover the rewards and risks of exploration with Jon Walsh and Ian Welsted as they establish a beautiful new mixed line in the remote Icefall Brook range of British Columbia and cool down on the difficult sport routes of Lions Head in Ontario with Sam Elias, Emily Harrington, Leslie Timms and Lauren Lee.
 
Brian Kim on Still Life (5.14b) and Excessive Tunnel Power (5.13c)
Videos by GearVideos - Brian Kim is shown here on the third ascent of Still Life (5.14b or 8c) at Summersville Lake, West Virginia. The line consists of 13b climbing followed by to two distinct boulder problem cruxes that are roughly V7 and V5. Also shown is Kim redpointing a route at Mormon Hollow in Western Massachusetts. The line, Excessive Tunnel Power (5.13c or 8a+), has powerful roof climbing and is a link-up of two existing climbs out a massive 30 foot roof . This new start links up the cruxes of a 12d and 13a on good, textured rock and awesome shaped holds.
 
Interview with Randy Leavitt in Maple Canyon, UT
Video by SanukFootwear - Randy Leavitt, based in southern California, has made first ascents and climbed all over the world for more than 30 years. He is respected for producing both hard traditional climbs and bolting futuristic sport climbs. Sanuk provides creative, distinctively designed footwear products for the global outdoor community. Including sandals, Not-A-Shoe Sidewalk Surfers, and smiles. Honored with the SIMA 2007 Footwear Product of the Year and the 2009 Irvine Soft Bocce Champions, Sanuks Sidewalk Surfers are known as "Not-A-Shoe" for their comfort and patented sandal construction.
 
A Day in The Life of Tommy Caldwell
Video by Cedar Wright - This is a short video for BlueWater Ropes that gives you a peak into the climbing legend's training regimen, and philosophy on the climbing life. I attempted to keep up with Tommy for a typical training day and was sore for a week! Tommy is arguably the best bigwall freeclimber in the world, but what sets him apart is his down to earth happy go lucky nature and fun loving demeanor. Tommy is training for a free ascent of Mescalito on El Capitan which if he can pull it off, will be in my opinion, the hardest bigwall free climb in the world.
 
Gorgeous French Limestone at the Gorges du Loup's Deverse Sector
Videos by PhilippeGatta.fr - Deverse, also called Pupuce Surplomb is the hardest cliff, in term of difficulty, in France's Gorges du Loup. The first free climbing route was Déversé Satanique, open by Bernard Duterte in the mid 1980’s. Now graded 8a+ (which may be a tad soft) it remains a fantastic climb. Shown here is Philippe Gatta on Qoussaï and on Déversé Satanique, both 8a+ or 5.13c, plus his wife Anna Gatta on Mekanik Destruktive Komando (7c or 5.12d) all at the Deverse Sector in the Gorges du Loup, France.
 


 
2000 Pixel - High Rez Images
SWEET PHOTO RIGHT? WELL NOW YOU CAN HAVE IT! Plus loads more like this one by Celin Serbo from Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado.


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Climbing in Northern California
Photos by Alton Richardson / www.altonrichardson.com - This gallery features climbing from all around Northern California including Yosemite, Mickey’s Beach, Tahoe, Castle Rock State Park, Berkeley, Sonora and Bishop and also features many nor-cal climbers and local strongmen like Eric Sanchez and Jessie Palomino. Alton Richardson is a Northern California based photographer with a passion for documenting climbing and evolving the ways that climbing is photographed. His work is about being creative and organic while incorporating the natural elements of the outdoor world with a vision of innovation.
 
Climbing Quinto Imperio on Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain
Photos courtesy of Leopoldo Faria - At the end of August 2009, Leopoldo Faria and Pedro Nogueira established the first repeat of Quinto Imperio (V 5.13d or 8b) on the West Face of Spain's most famous big wall, Naranjo de Bulnes (also known as Picu Urriellu). Quinto Império is a 500 meter long route that was opened in 1996 by the Portuguese climbers Francisco Ataide and Sergio Martins and first free climbed by the Pou brothers in June 2009. The Naranjo de Bulnes is one of the most impressive limestone walls in Europe with orange and gray colors on solid rock that offers super technical climbing with not so easy protection. Read more.
 
2009 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
Photos by Lucas Marshall / www.lucasmarshall.com - 2009's fourth annual 24 HHH brought many new and exciting variables to the table. Ample rain, Tommy Caldwell, mucho loud screaming and the best event to ever grace the walls of Arkansas' Horseshoe Canyon Ranch was eventually how it all turned out. In this unique endurance climbing challenge, participants attempt to cleanly lead as many routes as they can in 24 hours, with more points for harder routes and trad climbs. September 25-27, 2009 had over 500 people slammed into Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in the form of 230 competitors, over 60 volunteers, and spectators. Camaraderie was high. Competition was fierce. Visit TwoFourHell.com for more info.
 
Tech Tip - Training - TARGETED OPPOSITION
TENDONITIS — LIKE IT OR NOT, if you’re an avid climber, at some point you’ll feel that deep, dull ache in your elbows or shoulders, a sign of inflamed tendons. The constant tugging is what does us in — using loads of pulling muscles (lats, shoulders, biceps, forearms) while neglecting the pushing muscles (pectorals, anterior deltoids, triceps), thus placing unidirectional strain on your tendons.
 




 


 
UTOPIAN VISTAS
Taos: a basalt, granite, and conglomerate paradise in northern New Mexico - They say you can tell a lot about a climber by his dog. And if Jay Foley’s German shepherd, Lupita, is any indication, he’s put up a lot of routes.We’re near Taos, northern New Mexico, on a hot May afternoon - 85 F, blistering for 7,000 feet elevation on a plateau lapping against the Sangre de Cristos (Rockies).
 
Get Shorty - The 5 best miniature sport routes in America
By Matt Samet - “These days, sport routes are getting longer,” says the sport-climbing progenitor Boone Speed. Speed would know: he recently photographed Chris Sharma on his 250-foot mega-pitch Jumbo Love, a 5.15 in California that’s emerged as North America’s longest, most difficult stretch of bolted rock. As Speed says, ultra-marathon endurance, especially on steep terrain, has become all the rage: there’s Jumbo Love; the new 300-foot Ichiban, a 5.14 in Austria’s Zillertal; the 170-foot 5.15a La Novena Enmienda (a 65-foot 5.14c linked into a 105-foot enduro-pig 5.14b), at Santa Linya, Spain.
 
The King Of Kings
In professional climbing, where talent burns hot and fast, a decade is a long time. Ankles snap. Shoulders pop from sockets. Fingers calcify. And those rare talents that don't succumb to nagging injuries often falter beneath the mental pressure.
 
ARI Upgraded Route Master list
382 Routes UPGRADED - MASTER LIST Updated 11/13/09 - Over 1000 bolts have been replaced on selected high-traffic routes at major crags across the country. The anchor work receiving Climbing's ARI treatment was preformed by some of the climbing communities most experienced equippers.
 


 
 
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