Home on the Range

Tufa climbing in the Arizona desert

Def: Tu•fa [ʻtoo-feh] noun
1. A porous rock composed of calcium carbonate, formed by precipitation from water; creates radical protrusions for one to stem and pinch while rock climbing

I first remember hearing about the Homestead seven years ago while living in Prescott, Arizona. This mythical crag was supposedly home to tufa climbing—those amazing fins and tubes that I imagined finding at tropical crags like Tonsai Beach in Thailand, but certainly not in the arid landscapes of Arizona. Last year, I finally made my way to the Homestead to sample what I think are Arizonaʼ’s best sport climbs.

The climbing consists of vertical to overhanging limestone routes, scattered along a semi-backcountry setting in the Mescal Mountains between Globe and Winkelman, Arizona. You can find everything from 5.6 to 5.14 sport routes, with a high concentration of 5.10s to 5.12s. The variety of limestone climbing styles here is impressive: Each wall has its own panache, and you can find everything from pockets to edges, tufas to insecure slab moves.

So why isn’t it more popular? Because you need a sturdy 4WD to motor up to the cliffs, or you have to walk four miles each way. This isn’t the roadside limestone of southern France.

Although the Homestead has only recently started to see many visitors, the area has been developed since 1998 by climbers such as Ben Boyd, Jason Stoddard, John Rosholt, Garret Auxier, Manny Rangel, Fred AmRhein, Dave Ianuzzi, and others. Louis Anderson led a second wave of development in 2005, and by 2007, there were approximately 100 routes in the Homestead—many more have gone up since then. Currently, Eric Fazio-Rhicard, Lucas Anaya, and Scott Ayers have focused on establishing quality routes at Rough Rider Wall, Tufa City, Slate Nation, and Marley Wall.

We approached the Homestead during a late November morning. A low fog hung down on the austere Sonoran Desert, as a crisp breeze followed us along the meandering dirt road leading to the cliffs. Upon reaching the Homestead, we passed through the final gate underneath a large barbed wire “H,” marking the entrance for crusty desert climbers. The climberʼs’ trail, strewn with barnaclecovered limestone and other fossilized sea creatures, veers right from the parking areas where a canister hangs for climbers to sign in. This well-defined trail drops into the canyon floor and follows the wash to the Homestead, where a 10-minute hike will lead you to the Welcome Wall. Many climbers begin here, as the routes are

short, easy, and fun warm-ups. Up-canyon, the Homestead is lined with steep, long, limestone walls that seem to go on forever, like Rough Rider Crag, which is defined by consistently exciting and thought-provoking routes. But nothing compares to the elegant and aesthetic lines at Tufa City, where black streaks line the white limestone overhangs. Two of Homesteadʼs best and exciting routes are Tufa One (5.11-) and Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c). On Tufa Yard Dash, the tufa ribs often extend more than two feet from the cliff, creating exciting pinches and opportunities for stemming. With overhanging jugs and even no-hands/ kneebar rests, this route is unique in its variety. If you climb these extraordinary tufas, please tread lightly on them as they create a loud hollow ring when touched. Make sure you don’t climb them after rain or if they are seeping; help to keep them there for the future climbers.

A safety note: staying on route is key to not getting hurt, as rock fall is not uncommon on lesser-trafficked routes. Helmets are recommended, especially for the belayer. Also, you’ll probably encounter a barrage of insects—mainly bees and wasps—at each cliff you visit. But don’t let this deter you: Homestead offers amazing limestone cragging.