Five hidden gems in hyper-crowded Joshua Tree

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TIRED OF ROLLING UP TO JOSHUA TREE’S MEGA-CLASSICS only to find queues five parties deep? Well, so am I — you’d think the park’s 5,000 pitches would make finding solitude simple, but the sad truth is most climbers flock to Josh’s handful of pedestrian classics with high stars and easy access. Still, with a little effort, you’ll find four- and five star pitches far from the hordes.

I’ve been climbing in J-Tree nine years, tacking thousands of miles onto my odometer on the drive up from San Diego. Although most of my treks into the park’s more obscure areas have turned out fruitless, a handful of climbs stick in my mind as true gems — some revealed by longtime locals, and others upon which I simply stumbled. As the park becomes more crowded, with weekend warriors like me piling in from LA and San Diego, the pressure’s on to find solitude. Below, you’ll find five high-quality, obscure, and seldom-done classics that involve more climbing than waiting.

Physical Graffiti (5.10d), Anasazi Wall, Echo Rock Area
A two-pitch insta-classic with technical footwork on steep rock, created in 2004 by Bob Gaines, the longtime J-Tree route developer and owner of Vertical Adventures guide service. The 50-foot first pitch has you hand-traversing an angling dike to a belay cave. From here, the next pitch traverses left horizontally, then straight up a thin layback and through a funky roof. The exposure and movement rule!

Gear: Optional small pro below the first bolt on P1. From there, all you need is eight quickdraws. Bring a 60-meter rope for the rap, and long slings if you intend to link the pitches.

Approach: Park at Echo Cove, follow the Barker Dam Trail for 10 minutes, and then head east to the Snickers Wall. The large rectangular block of the Anasazi Wall sits directly east — hike toward it and look for the obvious right-angling dike. Approach time: 30 to 35 minutes.

Guidebook: Details on mountainproject.com

In the Neighborhood: If you enjoy offwidths, don’t miss the 5.10b Mushroom Crack, the gaping fissure on the left; gear to 5”.

Savwafare 1st Everywhere (5.8), Saavy Dome, Real Hidden Valley
Skip past the crowds at Sail Away and enjoy this well-protected 80-foot moderate, which might be even better. For some reason, Josh’s easier climbs never get much credit, including this one, which receives exactly 0 stars in the guidebook. The patina holds and fun movement give this trad climb a sporty feel.

Gear: Full rack from tips to hands, with great pro the whole way. Walk off down and right.

Approach: Park as for Real Hidden Valley, and then hike past Sail Away on the main loop trail till the Brown Formation. Hike straight past Brown and you’ll see the Saavy Dome formation on your right. Approach time: 15 to 20 minutes.

Guidebook: Rock Climbing Joshua Tree, by Randy Vogel (second edition, 1992; Falcon)

In the Neighborhood: Don’t miss Jerry Brown (5.10c), on the Brown Formation. It’s short but high quality. Tricky gear to start, then steep fingerlocking.