In 1979, hangdogging was frowned upon. Tony Yaniro was determined to send Grand Illusion (5.13b), but he couldn't do it solely with ground-up burns. The solution: a homemade wooden replica of the crack. Yaniro practiced the jams every day until he was able to send it in one go on three pieces of pre-placed gear. It was considered the most difficult route in the world at the time. In this video, Yaniro returns to the route to accompany 13-year-old phenom Mirko Caballero on his attempt of the notorious granite finger crack.



Comments

I wanna actually watch that kid climb Grand Illusion w/o pre placed trad gear and actually place his own gear. The video was great up to that point. Lost interest very quickly... Such polar opposites in ethics those two.

Matt - 07/28/2014 6:11:34

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/grand-illusion/105875792 placing gear on lead is not out of the question on this route. Yaniro did it when it wasn't even thought of as possible. Mid 5.13 trad is in the wheelhouse both with gear and ability for many climbers these days. Mirko should have placed gear on lead.

John W - 07/27/2014 11:20:08

"Yaniro practiced the jams every day until he was able to send it in one go on three pieces of pre-placed gear." - the description right below the video

Danger - 07/24/2014 11:06:15

John W, you obviously don't know what you are talking about. your comment makes me feel sad for you

choss - 07/24/2014 11:05:30

While I am impressed with Mirko's talent and skill at climbing, this video makes me sad for him. Sad that he robbed himself of a true ascent of a classic test piece. Why on earth did he not place gear on lead? Grand Illusion is not a sport climb- the entire video talks about how the climb was established, and how important good style was and then we watch Mirko climb up it, clipping pre-placed gear the whole way. How disappointing, especially since I know that Mirko is strong enough to do this climb in proper style.

John W - 07/24/2014 10:20:12

Leave a Comment