2005 Golden Piton Awards
Each January, Climbing reviews the achievements of the year, determining who's hot and who's not, what was new, where were the highpoints of boldness and creativity. We — the editors — revisit our notes, consult our authoritative panel of senior and-contributing editors and other angelically unbiased experts, collect votes, arbitrate the impassioned arguments, and choose the dozen or so absolute best performances of the year, the Golden Piton Awards.
This year Climbing is rolling the invitation out to you — our loyal readers — to select the 2005 “Climber of the year” Golden Piton award. Selecting this piton is no easy task, as our editor-generated list of candidates is strong, with many a rock star listed amongst its ranks. While there are inherent biases involved, we ask that you absolve yourself of your own climbing pursuits and carefully assess the achievements of each individual climber. Please take the time to consider how one particular climbers’ feat is more impressive than his or her competition. This is, after all, Climbing Magazine’s salute to the planet's brightest and strongest climbers, and we want to make sure that each golden pin award shines as brightly as the achievements being recognized. To revisit the proudest sends of the year, check out the past year’s worth of online Hot Flashes stories.
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Thank you for your interest in Climbing's 2005 Reader's Choice Climber of the Year online poll. The window for online voting is now over, and our edit team is busy tallying the results. Please look to see who won the Reader's Choice award in issue No. 247, due out on newsstands in March 21st. Also, please keep visiting our site to look for future polls and awards, and of course the latest Hot Flashes climbing news available anywhere in cyberspace.
Thanks you! The Climbing Magazine edit team
2004 Golden Pitons We seek out visionary mountaineering efforts, improbable boulder problems, sport routes that "just say no" to the easy temptations. In short, we reward ascents that stand for something, in all mediums. 2003 Golden Pitons Each January the editors at Climbing begin scouring the records, recollections, and rumors for the most impressive ascents of the past year.
Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose 10/17/05 - Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden have completed a free ascent of the Nose of El Capitan.
Caldwell Frees Nose and Freerider in a Day 11/1/05 - Two weeks after he free-climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 12 hours, Tommy Caldwell has linked the Nose and Freerider all-free in 23 hours 23 minutes.
5.14 Roof Crack Redpointed 9/29/05 - Didier Berthod has returned to Greenspit, the 5.14a roof crack he climbed two years ago in Italy, and completed a traditional redpoint, placing gear as he climbed.
Americans Climb Rupal Face 9/9/05 - Vince Anderson and Steve House have climbed a direct new route on the Rupal Face of 26,657-foot Nanga Parbat in Pakistan, according to www.grivelnorthamerica.com.
Bereziartu Onsights 5.13d 10/06/05 - Josune Bereziartu has onsighted Fuente de Energia (8b/5.13d) at the Spanish crag Vadiello.
Zangerl Repeats Two Hueco V14s 4/13/05 - Austrian Bernd Zangerl spent a month at Hueco Tanks this winter and repeated two of the park’s V14 boulder problems.
Rodden Redpoints Anaconda 8/17/05 - In early August Beth Rodden-Caldwell repointed Lumpy Ridge’s Anaconda (5.13b/c), her second hardest crack climb to date.
Free and Trad in the Valley 9/16/05 - Belgian Nicolas Favresse has free-climbed a major new route in Yosemite Valley without any new fixed protection. Favresse, 25, worked for a month on L’Appât (VI 5.13a), the first free route up a big wall about 200 feet right of Yosemite Falls.
Andrada’s New-Route Spree 3/14/05 - The Spanish star Dani Andrada is showing the best shape of his life: Since the start of the year, he has completed seven new routes of 5.14c or harder, including one possible 5.15a.
Sharma’s Witness 3/30/05 - Chris Sharma, said to be in the best shape of his life, established his hardest boulder problem yet in Arkansas’ Ozark Mountains.
Glowacz, Jasper Complete Murallón 11/17/05 - After three years of effort, Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper have completed their dream of a new route up the main North Face of Cerro Murallón, a daunting summit that rises more than 1000 meters above the Patagonian Ice Cap.
New Sharma 5.14+ 9/28/05 - Chris Sharma has redpointed a new sport route among the giant granite boulders below The Chief in Squamish, B.C., and says it’s “probably 14c or 14d.
Zangerl’s Hardest Problem Yet 10/04/05 - Bernd Zangerl has climbed a boulder problem high in the Austrian mountains that he says is his hardest yet.
Andrada Ticks Second Possible 5.15 4/18/05 - Maximizing the last days of spring before hot weather settles on northern Spain, Dani Andrada has redpointed his second possible 5.15 in a single month.