Alpine Mega-Mixed Route

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Photos by Klaus Fengler.

Robert Jasper and Markus Stofer have created a 12-pitch mixed route behind the Staubbachwasserfall in Switzerland, one of the highest waterfalls in the Alps. The 950-foot new route has pitches up to M9 and WI5+, with some serious climbing protected by ice gear, cams and fixed pitons. The two worked on the route for a few days in early February, then attempted a one-day free attempt that was halted at the M8/9 11th pitch, where ice had melted back more than 60 feet. Three days later, in colder conditions, they rappelled from the top and climbed the final two pitches. A continuous ascent awaits.

The pitches on this monster go at WI4+, WI5+, WI3, WI3, WI4+, M8, M7+, M8, M9, M8, M8/9, and WI2.

Photos by Klaus Fengler. See more photos and full account (in German) at Short account in English at on this story

Photos by Klaus Fengler.

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