Angel Falls All-Free

By Dougald MacDonald ,

An international team has repeated Rainbow Jambaia (31 pitches, 5.13), a bold big-wall free climb beside remote Angel Falls in Venezuela. According to a story on, the French climbers Stéphanie Bodet, Nicolas Kalisz and Arnaud Petit, along with Toni Arbones of Spain and Igor Martinez of Venezuela, took 15 days to repeat the climb, with 12 nights on the wall. Petit reported the news to John Arran, who led the mostly British team that free-climbed the Angel Falls wall last spring.

This year, the climbers added two bolts to bivy ledges, but like the first-ascent team they relied entirely on traditional gear to protect the leads, with some dangerous climbing on overhanging rock. Nine of the climb’s pitches were graded E7 (5.12 R or 5.13), and the French onsighted three of these, discovered an easier variation to another, and redpointed the rest with gear left in place, as the first-ascent team did.

Arran told Planet Fear, “I’m really glad it’s been repeated without changing its unique and challenging character. Congratulations and respect to the team.”Comment on this story

John Arran on the first ascent of Rainbow JambaiaPhoto courtesy of the Arran Collection -

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