Beautiful New Route in Pakistan

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Pumari Chhish South (7,350m), as seen from base camp at 4,500 meters. The peak to the left, Kunyang Chhish East (7,400m), has been the objective of several expeditions in recent years, including an attempt by Vince Anderson and Steve House in 2006 that reached 7,100 meters, but it remains unclimbed, as does the unnamed 6,800-meter peak to the right. Photo by Christian Trommsdorff.

In addition to the French climbers’ attempts, this line had been tried twice by Julie Ann Clyma and Roger Payne, who experienced a darker side of the peak. During their first attempt, in 1999, they were hit by three avalanches at their third bivouac, and the following year they had another storm and were attempting to descend when the sun came out and triggered avalanches that temporarily buried Clyma at the end of her belay rope; both were unharmed, but they were forced to climb back to their bivy and retreat the next day in colder temperatures. For their successful attempt, Graziani and Trommsdorff benefited from six days of beautiful weather.

Date of Ascent: Summit reached June 12, 2007

Sources: Christian Trommsdorff, Roger Payne, American Alpine Journal

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