Before Tragedy: A New Route in China

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Lara Shan (ca. 5,700 meters) from the southwest. The American Standard ascends a hidden ice face and then finishes on the highest summit pyramid in the center.

After returning to base camp, they were enjoying a couple of days of rest in unsettled weather before their attempt on Siguniang. Then a messenger arrived with the news of Lara Kellogg’s tragic death, and the team began the long journey home. In tribute to the 38-year-old climber, who died while rappelling from an attempt on Mt. Wake in the Ruth Gorge, they decided to name the peak they climbed Lara Shan.

This trip was funded in part with a McNeill-Nott Award from the AAC. Read a full account and see more photos at

Date of Ascent: April 18, 2007

Source: Joe Puryear

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