Big New Routes Near Mount Logan

By Dougald MacDonald ,

The North Face of Mount McArthur, site of the Dornian-Josephson "calves of steel" workout.Photo courtesy of David Dornian.

The Canadian-American team of David Dornian and Joe Josephson seized short breaks from a lousy weather spell in the Mount Logan massif to establish two big Yukon routes in single-push style. The first was a 3,900-foot ice, snow and mixed route on the Northeast Face of 13,450-foot Catenary Peak, climbed on their third attempt May 29-30. They descended the Northeast Ridge and called the route Flowers for Bläise.

Two days later, they headed up the center of the unclimbed North Face of 14,250-foot Mount McArthur. The two simulclimbed more than 6,000 feet—that’s right, 6,000 feet!—of calf-burning 60-degree ice for more than 24 hours straight, stopping only once to stand and melt snow for refilling their water bottles. They reached the top just before 10 a.m. on June 3 and then took another 11 hours to descend the complex North Ridge in a whiteout. The two suggest their new front-pointing testpiece, Some Kind of Monster, could be the longest pure alpine-ice route in North America.

Dornian said in an email, “The McArthur/Catenary complex is to Mount Logan what Mount Hunter is to Denali, except for a lack of crowding and the possibility of endless new routes.

Catenary PeakPhoto courtesy of David Dornian.

Join the Conversation