Bold Solos in Nepal

By Dougald MacDonald ,

The Amphu group in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Jordi Tozas climbed the north face and northwest ridge of Amphu Middle (Peak 6,238m, left line) and the west face of Amphu South (6,146m, right line). Courtesy of Jordi Tozas /

The south face of Lhotse (8,516m/27,940

News Link: In November, Spanish climber Jordi Tozas completed two solo ascents of 6,000-meter peaks in the Khumbu region of Nepal, and made bold attempts on the south faces of Nuptse and Lhotse.

Tozas climbed a probable new route on Amphu Middle (Point 6,238m), with near-vertical ice and mixed climbing up to M4. On Nuptse, Tozas climbed a variation to the 1961 original route on the peak, and then diverted toward the 2003 Babanov-Koshilenko route on Nuptse East, reaching a high point of about 7,600 meters. On Lhotse, he reached 7,400 meters before being halted by a rock band that he’d expected to be covered by snow.

Read the full report at the BMC website.

Dates of Ascents: November 2008

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