E Josune Va

By Dave Pegg ,

Big guns, big wall — Bereziartu on E la Nave Va, which crimps its way rightward across the bottom 20 feet of this crag.

Bereziartu nails 100-foot 8c traverseOn May 6, Josune Bereziartu, of Spain, climbed one of the world’s hardest boulder-problem traverses, E la Nave Va, at Lindental, Switzerland. The problem is 100 feet long and makes a left-to-right crossing of the base of a huge, radically overhanging sandstone wall. It is given the traverse grade of Fontainebleau 8c, which can be variously compared to a V13/14 boulder problem or a 5.14d route. Bereziartu had spent a day scoping E la Nave Va, first climbed by Fred Nicole in 1994, after her ascent of the nearby Bain de Sang (5.14d) last year. Her fingers sore from Bain de Sang, she spent most of that time taking pictures of Fred Rouhling, who was working the problem. Inspired by one of her shots of E la Nave Va tacked to her gym wall, she trained hard over the winter and sent the problem in four days this spring, for its fourth ascent. Shortly thereafter, Bereziartu’s husband, Rikardo Otegi, made the problem’s fifth ascent.

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