Free Route on the Eiger

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Photos by Roger Schäli,

Robert Jasper has made a 12-hour, all-free ascent of a route on the right side of the Eiger’s north face at 5.13-, according to After some rehearsal of the crux pitches, Jasper redpointed the Yeti Route (1998) in mid-July with Stefan Eder. The climb is about 3,200 feet high, but the business is all in the upper half, tackling a 1,500-foot limestone headwall with pitches of 5.12b, 5.12c, and two 5.12d/13a leads, along with numerous 5.10 and 5.11 pitches.

A German living in Switzerland, Jasper spends many of his summers living on the Eiger. He has climbed the great north wall at least 15 times, including a solo ascent and the 1999 free-climbing linkup Symphonie de Liberté (5.13b) with his wife, Daniela. Comment on this story

Join the Conversation