A renewed energy invades the East Coast’s seemingly “tapped-out” ‘Gunksbouldering scene, as Paul Robinson, Andy Salo, Ivan Greene, and Vadim Vinokur establish newer, sicker, harder lines. Ghengis Khan — a line opened by Vinokur in April — stands as the hardest of the local’s efforts, registering at V13 with only two repeats by Greene and Robinson. “The problem is beautiful: it follows this overhanging line of crimps, sidepulls, and underclings to a huge deadpoint finish (crux move) to a really fun topout. Ghengis is a 40-move, straight-up endurancefest,” says Robinson.
In the same cave, Salo and Robinson put up two incredible lines, 36 Chambers (V11) and Gas Chamber (V12). Earlier in the year, Robinson also established What Rhymes with Orange? (V12) — a problem he believes is the hardest in the ‘Gunks — Second Before Awakening (another V12 testpiece recently repeated by Salo), and Forbidden Forest (V12).Comment on this story