Josune Bereziartu Ticks Hard Canadian Ice

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Josune Bereziartu on rock and ice below the Stanley Headwall, Alberta, Canada. Courtesy of Bereziartu/Otegi collection.

News Link: Josune Bereziartu, the strongest female rock climber in the world, has been turning more attention to alpine and winter climbing. In November she visited Canada with her husband, Rikar Otegi, to serve on the Banff Film Festival jury, and she ticked several hard ice and mixed climbs, including Nemesis (VI WI6), Killer Pillar (IV WI5+), and Phyllis Diller (M11). See more photos and a report at (in Spanish) or (in French). Last spring, the two established a seven-pitch alpine route in the Spanish Pyrenees: Frenesi (ED+ M6/7 R, 450m), climbed ground-up with natural protection.

Dates of Ascents: November 2008,,

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