Kazakhs Climb New Route on Manaslu

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Sergey Samoilov and Denis Urubko of Kazakhstan have climbed a direct new route up the northeast face of Manaslu in Nepal, the world’s eighth-highest peak, in alpine style. The two men had previously summited the 26,781-foot peak via its normal northeast face route on April 25. After resting for a week, they started up the new route on May 4 and bivouacked four nights before summiting late on May 8 and descending the next day. The route was mostly snow and ice for the first three days but required difficult mixed climbing through a rocky section above 24,500 feet on the fourth and fifth days.

Last July, Samoilov and Urubko climbed a difficult new route up the southwest face of 26,400-foot Broad Peak in alpine style, reaching the summit after six and a half days of climbing.Comment on this story

New route in red; existing routes in green.

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