“The Nose” of the Grandes Jorasses

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Photo courtesy of www.climbubu.com.

Mauro “Bubu” Bole and Mario Cortese have completed a 38-pitch free climb on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The two Italians finished Le Nez (“The Nose”) on the famed north wall on September 4, after working on the route during the month of August. The route takes a direct line to the summit of the Croz Spur, with many hard free-climbing pitches, including five 5.12 leads, along with the Grandes Jorasses’ usual icy rock and mixed climbing. Several bolts were placed for protection on the 5.12+ crux pitch, but the majority of the climb relies on removable gear and pitons.

For a complete report on the climb (in Italian, expected to be translated to English), as well as a topo and photos of the route, visit http://www.climbubu.com. Comment on this story

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