New Route on Patagonian Icecap

By Dougald MacDonald ,

The ice-cave camp below the peak

The isolated and storm-lashed summit of Murallon on the southern Patagonian Icecap has been reached by a new route. Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper of Germany made several load carries across the arduous glacier approach and endured weeks of foul weather before climbing the northern pillar of Murallon on December 4. They took 26 hours to complete the 3,500-foot route’s steep rock and ice, which they graded VII+ (5.11), M8. The climb is called The Lost World.Eric Shipton nearly climbed Murallon in 1961, but its actual summit was not reached until 1984, when an Italian expedition led by Casimiro Ferrari climbed the 4,200-foot northeast pillar in an extended siege effort. It was Ferrari’s fourth year of visits to the peak. French climbers Laurence Monnoyeur and Bruno Sourzac attempted a new route on the east face in 1999 but were driven off by storms about 1,000 feet below the top.

Glowacz and Jasper on the summit

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