One-Day Ascent of Native Son

By Dougald MacDonald ,

Photo by Luke Laeser

The amazing Ammon McNeely chalked up his 11th first one-day ascent on El Capitan, climbing Native Son in 23 hours 53 minutes with frequent speed partner Ivo Ninov. The 1987 route (5.9 A4) is one of the steepest routes on El Cap, taking on the right side of the southeast face between Iron Hawk and Tangerine Trip in 26 pitches.

In addition to his first one-day ascents, McNeely holds speed records on eight other El Cap routes. In February 2003, he set three speed records in a single day on Zion’s big walls, climbing with Brian McCray. Native Son was McNeely's 49th ascent, 36th route and 19th speed record on El Cap.

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