Spaniards Bag Virgin Peak in Pakistan

By Dougald MacDonald ,

The line of the western side of Neyzah Peak in Pakistan. After fixing three ropes at the base, the Spanish trio made a 46-hour round trip to bag the peak. Courtesy of

A Spanish trio has climbed a steep, virgin rock peak in Pakistan, after their large expedition abandoned an attempt on 7,788-meter Rakaposhi. Carles Figueras, Pep Permañé, and Josep Solá made the first ascent of Neyzah Peak (ca 5,800m), above the Kunti Glacier, in a two-day alpine-style climb, after fixing three ropes at the base. Their route, Guilleries (ED- 6a), covered 1,400 vertical meters (about 4,600 feet), with rock climbing difficulties up to 5.10.

Permañé and Solá fixed three ropes at the base of the west face on August 1, and the next day the three men climbed two-thirds of the route before settling in for an open bivy on a small ledge. In the morning, Fiqueras waited so Permañé and Solá could climb quicker to the top. The two men climbed half a dozen pitches to exit a steep amphitheater high on the face, and then continued up easier ground to the top. They did 20 60-meter rappels to return to the glacier and reached base camp at midnight, 46 hours after leaving.

Josep Solá climbs steep rock during the first ascent of Guilleries (ED- 6a) on Neyzah Peak. Courtesy of

Dates of Ascent: August 2-3, 2008,

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The Spanish trio on their bivy ledge. Courtesy of

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