Two New Routes in China

By Dougald MacDonald ,

The South Face of 5465-meter Mt. Daugou.Photos courtesy of Joe Puryear.

Americans Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear and Stoney Richards established two long rock routes in the mountains of Sichuan, China, in mid-October. The team first attempted the imposing Northwest Face of 6250-meter Mt. Siguniang, but could only reach 5500 meters in continuous poor weather. With one week left in their trip and good weather finally arriving, they switched their attention to smaller rock peaks they could climb fast.

First they found a beautiful 10-pitch route to the summit of a 5020-meter peak that turned out to be unclimbed. They called the peak The Angry Wife. Crossing to the Shuangqiao Valley, they next aimed for the South Face of 5465-meter Mt. Daugou, the highest peak in the immediate area. Their route required 17 pitches up to 5.10+, including a crux ice-choked offwidth just below the top. They reached the apparently unclimbed summit at dusk and rappelled their route at night.

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The Angry WifePhotos courtesy of Joe Puryear.

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