Two Possible First Ascents in the Miyar Valley

By Luke Laeser ,

Long Life Ridge, (5.9) on Peak 5,800 (5,820m) follows the obvious ridge to the summit. Photo by Camilo Lopez.

Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff have made two possible first ascents in India’s Miyar Valley.

After flying into Delhi on August 13th, arranging supplies, and trekking into the valley (which took 11 days), the team from Lyons, Colorado, found themselves in the company of two large expeditions, one from Italy and one form Korea. Hoping for an acclimatization route, Lopez and Pfaff started up a line, aiming for an unclimbed summit on Castle Peak. But due to blank rock, and the fact that an Italian team was also hoping to score that unclimbed summit, they bailed and set off for another objective.

Dodging storms, Lopez and Pfaff relocated and set up an advanced base camp in the nearby Tawa Valley. After scoping a new line from a distance, they started up some clean cracks and moderate faces with mostly 5.8-5.9 climbing, and in-a-day established the 840 meter route Directisima, (5.9), on what they have named Coni Peak, 5,200 meters. (But may also be called Toro Peak?)

After some rest days, and more poor weather, the team then set their sights on another potentially unclimbed objective, Peak 5,800 (5,820m) [But could have been Pilar Brouillard?] Leaving from their basecamp at 4am the pair started up a prominent ridge on the northwest side of the peak simul-climbing 800 meters of 5.7-5.8 rock followed by two belayed pitches of 5.9 climbing. After 1400 meters of climbing they reached the summit at 5pm. The team then spent the entire night rappelling and navigating through loose blocks in a gully system on the descent, rather than suffering through an open bivy. They named their possible new route (possible 2nd ascent) Long Life Ridge, (5.9) on Peak 5,800 (5,820m). (or Pilar Brouillard)

Anna Pfaff and Camilo Lopez. Photo by Camilo Lopez.

To see more photos from their trip visit:

Date of Expedition: August 13 – September 23, 2008

Sources: Camilo Lopez and Anna Pfaff

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