The K6 North Expedition - Charakusa, Pakistan

By Climbing ,

Located relatively far from our established base camp, we left in the afternoon of August 31st with all of our climbing gear, food for a day and a tent with the plan of hiking to the base of the peak, setting camp and climbing our proposed route in a single push. We started climbing around 4h30 am, simul and solo climbing rapidly up to 5700m at which point we were bummed to see fixed ropes on the headwall in front of us! Adding to our disturbed moral, the rising sun was now intensely cooking us. I took the lead, resolved to continue our ascent, and wanting to free climb the headwall. I carefully climb around the artefacts that soil the beautiful orange granite. Further up, after a long and strenuous ice pitch, Max takes the lead into a broken and loose corner. About 20ft up over a single piece of pro, he breaks loose and falls and is caught by his ‘spring-leash’, a homemade keeper leash attached to the spike of his ice axe. He gets over it and resumes the pitch, and in our deficient acclimatized state, we reach an altitude of 6000m. At around 4h30 pm, without any bivy gear or stove, slowed down by a complex saw-teeth like rock arête (and not too cheerful to go thru an open bivy to reach the summit of an already established route), we decide to bail in the nearby exit gully, even though we know it leads to a serac-threatened col.

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