Tech Tip - Sport - The matter at length.

By Rebecca Stokes ,

Several summers ago, I went climbing at Maple Canyon, Utah, with a Quebecois named Sue. After a morning of climbing, I had picked up her Canadian colloquialisms. By three in the afternoon we were spent, so I asked, “Do you want to see the Pipe Dream Cave, eh?” She replied, “Yah sure, eh, that sounds good.” We hiked up to the cave and watched a few climbers attempting the vicious ceiling routes. As one of the climbers pulled over the roof, I noticed he had clipped a 24-inch draw to the bolt just under the overhang. I thought about the physics, but before I remembered why I hated math, Sue pointed at the long draw, “Smart, eh, so he won’t hit his head on the roof.” I took the note to heart.As sport climbers, we deal with draws that are usually between four-inches and six-inches long. A sportie using a long trad draw is considered old school. However, it’s the smart sportie who carries at least two longer draws, and has two draws equipped with lockers, to compensate for odd rock formations, poor bolting, and large roofs. There are several other circumstances that also suggest going old school:

How to rig the trick-triple runner.

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