“I realized there was no foothold to move across to the bolt and I took a 30-foot whip, face down, one-foot from the ground.”
In the Elbe River Valley they were climbing 5.9+ by 1905 and 5.10+/5.11 by 1922. And they were doing this with knotted slings as pro.
Some things are scarier than broken bones.... The author recounts the epics he's experienced throughout his climbing career. The ones that changed him were commonplace.
From the archive: an incomplete list of classic routes climbed by our sport's wealthiest (at least until he gave his fortune away) and second most famous (though actually he may rival the Honnold in overall name recognition) dirtbag.
Access Fund urges climbers to join the fight for climbing areas; sustainable access
Back in 1979, tower trips could be serious business. Spring-loaded cams had yet to debut. Falls were rare, but potential air was huge.
Frederick Dreier sat down with Purja to discuss the triumphs and tragedies from his 2022 climbing season.
Sasha DiGiulian, Brette Harrington, and Matilda Söderlund traveled to Spain to tackle 'Rayu,' 16 pitches of biting limestone. For DiGiulian, it signaled a return to the height of her athletic career.
Everything's here, from fingerboarding to power, endurance and strength training. Includes expert advice on getting stronger fingers, shoulders, abs, you name it and if you want to train it up, this soup-to-nuts compendium has it.
Honnold is famous for (among other things) cramming as much climbing as he can into each day. To do so, he's developed some efficiency tricks that the rest of us can imitate.
They needed to be prepared for disaster. Fortunately, a real climber stepped in.
There are two miracles in this week's whipper: 1) He survived. 2) He caught the fall on video.
Stop wasting your money on shoes that don't fit or are painful or fail you. Don't be disappointed again. Here's how to buy what' just right, just for you.
The fearless American free soloist brought climbing into the limelight, and upped the risk ante so high it may never be surpassed.
Seven essential climbing knots to learn first: The Trace Eight, Prusik, Clove Hitch, Ring Bend, Double Fisherman's, Girth Hitch, and Figure-Eight On A Bight.
They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.
During my senior year of high school, my friends and I were bored. We decided we collectively knew enough about climbing for it to be safe. We went to the local outfitter and bought harnesses, carabiners, and belay devices, but we scoffed at the price of a rope. It was way outside our budget. Instead, we went to Home Depot and bought 100 feet of poly cord that was rated for 200 pounds. We climbed on that rope all day, just easy 5.3 climbing on toprope. I’ve included a couple photos. It wasn’t until I was lowering at the end of the day that I realized what a mistake I’d made. The 100-foot rope had stretched to about 200 feet, shrinking to the size of 8mm cord. I bought a real climbing rope the following week. Wanted to share because we are all new at some point and even with the best intentions mistakes are made. We should collectively work together to improve safety across the sport. I wish someone would have stopped us from climbing on that poly rope.
—Kyle Harris, via email
LESSON: Modern climbing ropes include a number of climber-friendly features. They can hold thousands of pounds of force. They have durable sheaths that prevent abrasion and cutting. They have the ideal amount of stretch to catch a fall softly, and then bounce back to their original length and diameter. They’re supple and easy to tie and untie. They’re tested to meet rigorous safety standards. And they work great with modern belay devices. A random hardware store rope is not designed with any of these goals in mind, and can’t be expected to meet them. Always use proper climbing gear designed and rated for climbing.
These Kids Used Parachute Cord For Slings …. Said They Learned It From The Boy Scouts