Matteo Della Bordella on His Aguja Mermoz FA and Finding New Challenges in Patagonia
'Qué mirás' follows a logical line of weakness—splitter cracks, friction dihedrals, and several punchy roofs—up the center of the East Face for 14 long pitches.
'Qué mirás' follows a logical line of weakness—splitter cracks, friction dihedrals, and several punchy roofs—up the center of the East Face for 14 long pitches.
The 30-year-old from France set a blistering record on Broad Peak. Then he took it too far.
Featuring vertical ice and mixed climbing at high altitude, it was of the hardest lines in the Himalaya 46 years ago. Despite many attempts it’s repelled a second ascent until now.
Soloing Everest without supplemental oxygen, in winter, in alpine style, and by a technical route is no small task. How do you stack the odds in your favor? Adopt sport climbing tactics.
The Southeast Ridge has repelled attempts from some of the world’s greatest alpinists. Three climbers have solved another “last great problem” in impressive alpine style.
Check out Federico Bernardi's author page.
Maestri is best known for controversy surrounding climbs on Cerro Torre in Patagonia---his debunked claim of the first ascent of the peak in 1959, and his subsequent Compressor Route on it in 1970---but his other achievements in and around Europe make him a standout figure in world climbing.