With over 75 ascents of El Capitan, nearly two dozen speed records of big wall routes in Yosemite and in Zion, and first ascents of hard aid climbs across the U.S., Ammon made a huge impact on wall climbing.
“It only takes a few people a year to really do some damage.”
The route features hard slab, 5.13+ seams, and a 5.13c finger crack of such high quality that the climbers named the ropelength "As Good as It Gets."
From the archive: James Lucas finds his way (and our history) at the Virgin River Gorge.
Improve faster and avoid injuries by climbing just below your limit—roughly 80 percent of your maximum ability—about 90 percent of the time.
You see untold climbing photos nearly every day and most of them suck. The bad news is they're your pics. It doesn't have to be this way. Follow the advice from these five expert climbing photographers and start taking world-class pics you'll be proud to share.
It’s easy to think that we can look after our pets’ needs at the cliff, but, in reality, we can’t.
"On arriving at the belay, I saw that my partner had tried to put the tube-style belay device in guide mode, but failed."
Alex Honnold's free solo of El Capitan did not occur in a bubble of solitude and inspiration. In this archive piece, originally published shortly after Honnold's ascent, James Lucas dives into the story (and backstory) of Honnold's path to Freerider.
He said the sustained route is a candidate for one of the hardest in the country.
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Unlock hard sequences and recover with a solid kneebar.
“She’s my favorite international climbing partner,” says Kate Rutherford. "She can make ramen and tuna taste gourmet."
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How skinny do we really need to be to crush? Where do you draw the line between strategic dieting and an unhealthy eating disorder?
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Maximize big wall success with one of these three tactics
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
How this guitar-obsessed “5.9-with-a-pack mountain guy” is working with the team at Black Diamond to drive refinement and innovation in their climbing gear
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Our top eight choices for the best bouldering gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Our picks for the best gear of 2020.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
How the internet became a climbing-anger machine
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Taking a break from his training dojo in Estes Park, Colorado, one of the world’s best all-arounders talks about hard climbing, the risk in alpinism, his low profile on social media, and balancing life as a father and pro climber.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Fifty days—in a single season—of hiking, bouldering, and long talus falls on the world-class blocks of Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Our top climbing gear picks of 2019
Our top climbing gear picks for 2019
Our top climbing gear picks of 2019
Our top climbing gear picks of 2019
The impact of a 60-foot free soloing fall on Boulder's Second Flatiron
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How truth In climbing makes you stronger
The thousand faces of Central Europe's karstic gem
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Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Life lessons from a fermented peach
The line that cemented new tactics, new gear, and a new grade
Our top climbing gear picks for 2018
Our top climbing gear picks for 2018
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Kiersch and Claassen climb a venerable American testpiece
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Check out James Lucas's author page.
Protects where larger pads don't.
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Warm, climbing friendly pants for cold winter conditions.
Gear storage made simple.
Gobright and Reynolds climb El Capitan route in 2:19:44.