2020 Comp Climbing Shoe Review: Scarpa Drago LV (& Drago)
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On-Sale Date
Drago LV: Autumn 2020; Drago: On sale now
Comp-Specific Features
Aggressive downturn for steeps, and asymmetric last for big-toe power and control; split XS-Grip 2 outsole for smearing on volumes; lightweight (7 ounces per size 40 shoe).
The Low-down
I have not climbed in the Drago, but have climbed extensively in its slightly stiffer lace-up counterpart, the Chimera, which won our Editors’ Choice award in 2018, and I’ve been a huge fan of the Chimera’s power and control on steeps, both in the gym and on bouldery sport climbs. This ranges from mega-force through the big toe, to glommed-on, precise heel- and toe-hooking—it’s one of those shoes with such instant feedback that it makes you rise to the occasion. The Drago likewise has a fan following and many of the same attributes—a precise, downturned toe for edging and jibs, but plenty of softness for flex on volumes. (On vertical terrain, the Drago/Chimera are so downturned that you’ll need to put in your break-in time to get flex for smearing.) This year, Scarpa is also releasing the low-volume Drago LV for climbers with narrower feet; it features their ingenious new PAF heel, in which the heel rand is split to reduce pressure on the Achilles tendon.
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LV model not available until autumn 2020.
