Gear Guide 2020: Sport Climbing Kit - Climbing Magazine

Gear Guide 2020: Sport Climbing Kit

Our top eight choices for sport climbing gear of 2020.
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Crimpin’ ain’t easy, but these 8 new items, field-tested by obsessive sport climbers, all got “two kneebars way up” at the crag and while training.

Send Climbing Mini Slim Kneepad

Easy on, easy off.

Easy on, easy off.

"You don’t always need heft, which is why I fleshed out my arsenal with the Mini Slim, with its scant 3mm of Airprene topped off with a sensitive swath of 3mm sticky Send rubber." Read full review

Red Chili Mystix

Pointy precision, locker heel.

Pointy precision, locker heel.

"A standout for one tester was the heel rand, which uses softer, form-fitting black rubber infused with a harder red rubber for consistent tension—and 'incredibly stable hooking.'" Read full review

Black Diamond Hot Forge Hybrid Quickpack 12cm

HotWire for fast clipping.

HotWire for fast clipping.

"Smooth gate-action is a must at your limit, and BD has nailed it with these draws, which have the über-fast-clipping, redesigned HotWire wiregate on the bottom." Read full review

Metolius Super Chalk Bucket 

Killer chalk, minimal packaging.

Killer chalk, minimal packaging.

"Super Chalk now comes in 2.5-gallon (2.2 lbs) and 5-gallon (4.4 lbs) buckets, creating a cool, low-impact solution for bulk use." Read full review

Pitch Six EyeSend Belay Glasses

Quick-adjust angle change.

Quick-adjust angle change.

"Pitch Six’s glasses, with an easy flick of a rotating lever, let you move between 60 and 120 degrees—perfect for overhanging climbs or to adjust on the fly as your climber gets higher." Read full review

Pongoose Climber 1000+ Stick Clip

14 feet of draw-hanging power.

14 feet of draw-hanging power.

"As with the Pongoose Climber 700, you get the same ingenious 3-in-1 head, and you can use the telescoping pole as a bubba brush or camera monopod." Read full review

Fixe Hardware Roca 9.6 Siurana Endurance Rope 

9.6 mm feels like 9.0 mm.

9.6 mm feels like 9.0 mm.

"The price-point sport and alpine Siurana Endurance handled like a skinnier, pricier cord—“It felt expensive and high-quality,” raved one tester." Read full review

Fixe Hardware Galvanized Wire Rope Draw & Steel Carabiner

Mega-smooth perma-clipper.

Mega-smooth perma-clipper.

"I installed the 10.5” 301-14 draw (w/ biner: 14”) at the crux of a Flatirons project... All of us trying the route dug the snappy gate action at the strenuous “stance,” not to mention the thick, durable metal." Read full review.

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Matt_Field_Testing (1)

Matt Samet, the editor of Climbing, has been sport climbing since the 1980s, when bolts were hardware-store mank and crusty trad-dads randomly chopped them. He feels lucky to have access to all the great tools available today.