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Gear Guide 2020: Red Chili Mystix Review

Our picks for the best gear of 2020.


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The Red Chili Mystix climbing shoe. 

Limestone aficionados and fans of pockety face will love the Mystix—they have a long, stiff, balletic toe married with an aggressive downturn and visibly asymmetrical (“banana”) last that yielded big power for steeps and precise micro-standing. Lasted for lower-volume feet, the Mystix have a supportive, CAD-drafted, two-zone RC-Flex midsole and a 3.5mm XS Grip Sole that offered reliable smearing for a stiffer shoe, while a wide, single-pull Velcro strap made for easy-adjust sizing. A standout for one tester was the heel rand, which uses softer, form-fitting black rubber infused with a harder red rubber for consistent tension—and “incredibly stable hooking.” MSRP: $175

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