$35 (dogbone only), $50 (with carabiners); campusa.com
For sketchy aid or trad placements and ice screws, a load-limiting quickdraw can provide a margin of safety and confidence. These runners are sewn into a compact bundle with stitching designed to break under a heavy load, absorbing some of the impact force. (The expanded runner retains full strength.) It activates at forces greater than 2.5kN and can reduce the impact of a factor 1 fall by up to 50 percent—great for the first screws or pieces above a belay. The X-Draw, also sold as the Photon XDraw (pictured) with a pair of CAMP Photon wiregate biners, is a seven-inch Dyneema dogbone that weighs less than 2 oz.— about half as much as a Yates Zipper Screamer, and $10 cheaper than the Mammut Shock Absorbing Dyneema. The X-Draw has a snug rubber fitting to keep the biner from rotating, and testers found it easy to rack and clip, with or without gloves.