DMM/Excalibur – Belay Device Review

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.

DMM/Excalibur - Belay Device Review

DMM Bug, $16

Summary: The DMM Bug is a thick-walled, durable unit that excels when you’re belaying with skinny ropes, either single or double. The narrow channels of the tube make it easier to lock off thin cords. However, this performance comes at a price, as it was extremely difficult to push 11mm ropes through the channels. In a few cases, we weren’t able to fit one in at all.

Pros: Excellent for skinny single ropes, and double ropes.

Cons: Doesn’t accommodate thick ropes.

Overall grade: B+

DMM/Excalibur: (801) 942-8471,

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.