Edelweiss Alpha,

$77, 9 ounces

Overall grade: B-

Summary:

The lightest

harness

in the review, the Alpha is also the most daring. In order to save weight, Edelweiss has done away with the standard two tie-in points in favor of a single, albeit beefy, tie-in that rises just above the swami. From a safety standpoint, this setup eliminates the advantage of loop redundancy, but the harness does still pass the CE standard. The adjustment for the swami consists of a Velcro strap that is not part of the harness’s securing system; it’s for fit only. The Alpha was reasonably comfortable and boasts four woven gear loops — a surprise on a harness of this weight — that clipped and racked well. Don’t expect the Alpha to stand up to a lot of belaying, as the belay loop consists of just one small piece of webbing. In all, this rig is best suited for the rabidly weight-conscious redpoint artist who wants to bust it out on special occasions.

Edelweiss/Liberty Mountain:

(888) 902-5462, www.libertymountainclimbing.com

The Test Results

Arc’teryx VaporBlueWater IconC.A.M.P. GekoEdelweiss AlphaMammut ApolloMisty Mountain ArêteOcun MescalPetzl SamaSinging Rock RhythmTrango FlyWild Country Helix Ziplock