Mad Rock Maniac Rock Shoe Review

Heading out the door? Read this article on the new Outside+ app available now on iOS devices for members! Download the app.


Mad Rock 2005 Rock Shoe Review

Mad Rock Maniac, $60

Overall grade: B

Target climbs:

Moderate

sport climbing

and

bouldering

; gym training

Fit:

Moderately asymmetric; medium width and volume throughout

Summary:

Built on the same last as Mad Rock’s popular Flash, the unlined synthetic Maniac is a good shoe for entry-level climbers looking for a model that will take them from their first days in the gym to pushing themselves on harder routes and problems outside. “This should be considered a performance shoe for moderate climbers and training/performance shoe for advanced climbers,” says Mad Rock’s Joe Garland.

“It’s a good shoe for moderate bouldering and sport climbing, up to 5.11 or so,” agreed one tester. The Maniac offers a solid balance between edging and smearing, and delivers good sensitivity, a bonus for developing climbers who need to gain a feel for intricate footwork.

The Maniac does have a noticeable problem, however. The aggressive heel cup that’s the desirable hallmark of Mad Rock’s higher-performance shoes is out of place on the Maniac. Because it’s a slipper meant for the moderate market, folks won’t be sizing it as tight as a high-end model. That looser fit combined with the stepped heel cup makes it pretty easy to pop the shoe’s heel off your foot. Mad Rock does supply a removable Velcro strap, but it’s not at all effective for keeping the heel on.

Mad Rock: 503.797.1952,

www.madrockclimbing.com

Mad Rock 2005 Rock Shoe Review

The Test ResultsAcopaBorealEMSEvolvFive TenLa SportivaMad RockMammutMontrailRed ChiliScarpa

Trending on Climbing

Film: How Matt Cornell Free Soloed One of America’s Classic Hard Mixed Routes

"The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route.