Omega Pacific SBG II, $17

Summary: Unlike the keeper loops that all the other devices in our test utilize, the SBG II features a solid-metal stem, which renders the durability issue moot. The stem has two clip-in points — one at the end for belaying and

rappelling

with single ropes, and one in the center for belaying with skinny double ropes. The tube features deep rope-controlling jaws on one side and rounder and feeding-friendly grooves on the other, so you can rig accordingly. The one downside to the SBG II is its complicated feature set — take time to read the instructions so you get full value.

Pros: Very versatile.

Cons: Complicated.

Overall grade: A-

Omega Pacific: (800) 360-3990,www.omegapac.com