Review: Progression Board

Publish date:

This story originally appeared in the March 2015 issue of our print edition.

Rock Climbing Training Progression Hangboard Review

This board is incredibly simple and even more effective: Train on a series of ever-smaller crimps to see and feel real progress as your fingers get stronger. Backed by 10 years of research in the sports science and climbing worlds, the Progression system is based around the idea that it’s optimal to train just below maximum strength to see actual gains while also avoiding injury. That’s why there are only crimps and each one is slightly smaller than the last. Following creator Eva Lopez’ instructions, testers were able to find exactly what their personal max was, and then train slightly under it to push themselves without taking it too far. “I loved this because it was so straightforward,” one tester said after a month on the board. “Every time I went to train, I felt like I was making noticeable strides instead of worrying about being ineffective or wondering if I’m using the ‘right’ holds.” Obviously the biggest drawback to this board is the lack of variety in hold types (no slopers or pinches at all), and some testers got a little bored with the crimps-only design. However, that design produced results: “The precise, graduated hold size made it easy to track progress and work my way up, and the 2mm difference between hold sizes is ideal.” The Progression is excellent for intermediate climbers; advanced climbers should check out the harder Transgression board.


If you’re a Type A climber when it comes to training, you’ll love this systematic board and training regimen from the ridiculously strong Spaniards. It produces impressive results quickly in a strict and somewhat supervised environment.

$265 (includes board plus approximate shipping cost from Europe);

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