2019 Climbing Shoe Review: Unparallel Regulus

High Tension
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The Unparallel Regulus, MSRP: $140

The Unparallel Regulus, MSRP: $140

Fit

Our tester wore his street-shoe size (9.5), which felt “tight but in a good way.” The Unparallel shoes we’ve seen tend to favor low-volume feet, so if you have big dogs, come up at least a half size. The shoes also come in a low-volume version.

Specs

Downturned, asymmetrical shoe. Synthetic, unlined upper; High Rigid midsole; extended toe rand over forefoot; slingshot randing; 4.2 mm full-length RH outsole.

Pros

Soft yet precise downturned shoe that locked in, said our tester, “on the faintest of footchips and crystals.” Excellent edging. Ergonomic, tapered heel fits snugly, allowing for serious cranking on heel hooks.

Cons

Major downturn makes smearing, especially through the middle of the shoe, tricky. Performance fit borders on painful for extended wear.

Field Notes

Working off the tried-and-true, radically downturned, single-strap-closure template, Unparallel has created a fleet gym/bouldering/sport-cave shoe with power and precision on its mind. “The Regulus really stood out at Wall of the Nineties in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado, where decades of climbing have left the footholds glossy and polished,” said our tester, who plied the boots on the thin, gneissic edging of Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c). “The (shoe) might as well have been Velcro the way I was pasted on.” Sizing tightly, our tester noted an aggressive fit that drove his big toe down and in, for “expert control even on faint footholds.” This did, however, come at a price, and the Regulus, like many shoes in its genre, is really only meant to be worn in short bursts—boulder problems and short, steep sport routes—and can be unwieldy for full-foot smearing. Heel hooking scored very high marks, as did toe scumming and heel-toe cams thanks to the hyper-large scum patch/rand, which wraps back nearly halfway over the shoe. “This shoe will be extremely popular with those looking to climb steep boulders and walls outside,” concluded our tester.

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See the rest of our 2019 Climbing Shoe Review.