7/14/11 - The first Lead World Cup of 2011 kicked off this week in Chamonix, France, just a few days before the World Championships in Arco, Italy.
For the first time in World Cup history, the women's competition saw a four-way tie for first place, between Caroline Ciavaldini (France), Angela Eiter (Austria), Jain Kim (Korea), and Mina Markovic (Slovenia). All four women topped the finals route. The men's podium was much more clear cut, with Austria's Jakob Schubert in first—the only man to slap the chains—and Spain's (and 2010 European champion) Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Norway's Magnus Midtboe in second and third.
Sasha DiGiulian, one of the U.S.'s strongest female competitors, went into finals strong, but had a foot slip going through the roof on the finals route. "My foot slipped while I was coming out of the roof and onto the lip, and the resulting body swing caught me off-guard, and before I knew it I was back at the ground with an unfortunately familiar feeling of disappointment," she said on her blog. She finished in eighth place.
Also notably absent from the podium was Adam Ondra, who didn't even make finals. Last year, he stood on the podium in 11 IFSC competitions, including winning the overall Bouldering World Cup. He placed 17th in Chamonix.
Not unusually, three Russians saw podium finishes in the speed comp. Sergey Abdrakhmanov (RUS), Libor Hroza (CZE) and Qixin Zhong (CHN) were the top three in men's speed; Edyta Ropek (POL), Alina Gaydamakina (RUS), and Maria Krasavina (RUS) won the women's comp.
The world's strongest climbers are now headed to Arco to compete in the World Championships, which start tomorrow. Check into arco2011.it (in Italian) for more info.
Women's Final Results:
1. Caroline Ciavaldini (FRA)1. Angela Eiter (AUT)1. Jain Kim (KOR)1. Mina Markovic (SLO)5. Momoka Oda (JPN)6. Katharina Posch (AUT)6. Christine Schranz (AUT)
Men's Final Results:
1. Jakob Schubert (AUT)2. Ramón Julian Puigblanque (ESP) 3. Magnus Midtboe (NOR)4. Sachi Amma (JPN) 5. Cédric Lachat (SUI)6. Romain Desgranges (FRA)
See full results here.