2012 World Cup Wraps Up; Amma, Markovic Overall Lead Winners
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11/20/12 – The last lead climbing competition of the 2012 World Cup series wrapped up November 17 and 18 in Kranj, Slovenia, with native Mina Markovic and Austria’s Jakob Schubert taking home the gold.
On the men’s finals route, estimated at 5.14a/b, Schubert climbed almost 10 holds higher than the second-place finisher, Japan’s Sachi Amma, for an unmistakable high point. Magnus Midtboe of Norway fell just below Amma, clinching a bronze medal.
The women’s finals event was much closer: Markovic, Japan’s Momoka Oda, and fellow Slovenian Maja Vidmar reached the same high point. Semifinals determined Markovic’s win, placing Oda second and Vidmar third.
While Schubert won the Kranj stage, the overall Lead World Cup title went to Amma—his first-ever overall World Cup gold. Prior to finals, Spain’s Ramón Julian Puigblanque was a contender for the overall title; however, he finished a disappointing seventh place after falling down low. Still, because of his successful 2012 performance—five podium finishes—he received the silver medal. Schubert’s also-impressive season landed him in third place.
Canadian Sean McColl, perhaps currently North America’s best competition climber, consistently finished on the podium in 2012. But despite this outstanding run, he didn’t make finals in Kranj, which dropped him to fourth overall.
For the combined World Cup title (bouldering and lead climbing), Schubert was crowned king and Markovic queen. McColl made up some ground here with his bouldering performances, placing second. Amma followed in third. Jain Kim of Korea placed second, followed by Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi.
Women’s final results (Kranj)
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Mina Markovic (Slovenia)
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Momoka Oda (Japan)
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Maja Vidmar (Slovenia)
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Jain Kim (Korea)
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Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
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Johanna Ernst (Austria)
Men’s final results (Kranj)
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Jakob Schubert (Austria)
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Sachi Amma (Japan)
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Magnus Midtboe (Norway)
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Jorg Verhoeven (Netherlands)
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Thomas Ballet (France)
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Romain Desgranges (France)
Women’s overall Lead World Cup rankings
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Mina Markovic
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Jain Kim
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Johanna Ernst
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Momoka Oda
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Hélène Janicot (France)
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Charlotte Durif (France)
Men’s overall Lead World Cup rankings
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Sachi Amma
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Ramón Julian Puigblanque
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Jakob Schubert
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Sean McColl
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Romain Desgranges
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Jorg Verhoeven
Women’s combined World Cup rankings
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Mina Markovic
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Jain Kim
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Akiyo Noguchi
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Momoka Oda
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Maja Vidmar
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Dinara Fakhritdinova
Men’s combined World Cup rankings
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Jakob Schubert
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Sean McColl
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Sachi Amma
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Jorg Verhoeven
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Thomas Tauporn (Germany)
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Mario Lechner (Austria)