249 - July 2006

249 - July 2006

Cover: Noah Bigwood battles the Serpent (VI 5.11+ R), Black Canyon, Colorado. Photo by Kennan Harvey


BOLTS NOT BOMBSCroatia’s Paklenica National Park is loaded with giant, Verdon-esque limestone walls. So, why haven’t you heard of it? The answer can be found somewhere in the troubled history of the Balkan Peninsula.BY JULIE GARRISON Frederick • PHOTOS BY BOBBY MODEL

NATURE OF THE BEASTAt 2,200 feet high and in a constant state of flux, the Painted Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is Colorado’s biggest, baddest cliff. The face’s palpable aura has spawned an unrivaled string of nightmare epics. BY JEFF ACHEY

BACKYARD BACKCOUNTRYSummertime in SLC means sweltering heat, stifling smog, and trad climbing in the mountains. Take a visual tour of the high-and-wild alpine moderates of Utah’s Wasatch Range.BY ANDREW BURR

GALLERYMixed madness, bouldering burliness, crack addiction, and 5.13 big walling.


EditorialTime to go shoe shopping. Who ya going to listen to?

Letters “Ketch” me if you can, the “Secret Crag” is out of the bag, cragside screaming, and other musings from the vertical world

Hot Flashes World’s hardest trad climb, wild Andean glacial-ice route, DG flashes two 5.14a’s, Rands does E8 … again, and dispatches from Patagonia

Off the Wall Devils Tower leans on, new research reveals true ecological impact of sport climbing, and Doug Coombs dies in La Grave, France

Whipped Road-trip karma goes south when the author and her boyfriend go on a mouse hunt.By Majka Burhardt

Tech Tips Trad: Rapping with an injured partner Sport: Better Beta for harder onsighting Alpine: Selecting the right footwear for the job, whatever that job may be

EquipmentTwenty-two of the latest and greatest climbing shoes for 2006

Just OutMaxim’s 9.1mm Apogee, Misty Mountain Stealth Pad, and a page-turner about global warming


Vantage PointHow do you rekindle things with your Best Climbing Partner? Drag him out on another epic, of course.By Heather Lea