251 - September 2006

251 - September 2006

Daniel Woods locking down the dime edges of Mandalion (V14), Buttermilks, Bishop, California. Photo by Jean-Michel Casanova


WOODS AFIREHe’s 17, powerful as hell, and only getting stronger. What’s next for climber, skater, and would-be graffiti artist Daniel Woods?Interview by Matt Samet

RESURRECTION OF THE DAMMEDA scant 15 miles north of Yosemite lies another valley, it, too, studded with dream domes and giant walls. The catch? Hetch Hetchy was dammed nearly 100 years ago, submerging much of its climbing and tourism potential — though this might well be what saves it.By Doug Robinson and Bruce Willey • Photos by Shawn Reeder

THE SEARCHA yearning for undiscovered climbing takes a French foursome into the heart of Bolivia’s altiplano, where they find a life of simplicity and perfection — and thousands of untouched, world-class boulders.By Lionel Daudet • Photos by Stephan Denys


EDITORIALMount Foraker claims the lives of two top alpinists, and we’ll never know what happened or why.LETTERSFrom “Best issue ever!” to “Cancel my subscription!”, readers sound off on Issue 250; plus, Angry Letter of the Month and Master Beta’s slam on stickclippers.HOT FLASHESSue Nott and Karen McNeill disappear on the Infinite Spur; Trotter nabs FFA of world’s hardest crack; Slovenian women tick 5.14b; Spain’s most prolific sport climbers reveal the secrets behind their success; more … OFF THE WALLWould you walk by a dying man? The disturbing report of 40-plus climbers on Mount Everest who did exactly that; Whipper of the Month; Crocs, belaying in lawn chairs, and yerba mate take a beating; crack queen Lisa Gnade, Then and Now; and more must-know Rules of ClimbingCLASSIC CLIMBSA witch, a sorcerer, a warlock … stay clear of the hexes on one of the most Spooky — and best — 5.9s in California’s Needles. By Jim ThornburgWHIPPEDExpando-crag: making the most of a precious resource, Polish-styleBy Majka Burhardt

GALLERYFrom the Himalaya to Australia to Zion to Wales, we’ve got the cure for your climbing jones.TECH TIPS Training: Crunched for time but want to quickly crank up your power? One word: Isometrics Trad: No more gruntin’. Laybacking — the calm, confident, and efficient wayHealth: The Dirtbag Pedicure — keeping your precious skin in primo pulling conditionEQUIPMENTOpen zip-ame — six panel-loading packs for cragging, plus three unique ropebags that’ll keep your cordage clean and ready to rollJUST OUTSleep, read, watch, hike, and climb — Black Diamond Skylight Tent, The Boys of Everest, a Swedish bouldering vid, the La Sportiva B5, and Five Ten’s new AltiaTHE GEAR YOU NEEDMoses’ Primrose Dihedrals ain’t no Kor-Ingalls — it’s bigger, burlier, more beautiful, and requires some key gear to make your ascent a cruise, not a bumblefest.10 THINGS YOU DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT …Devils Tower is celebrating 100 years as a national monument, and she’s been hiding some naughty little secrets.By zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn