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4/20/13 – Swedes Said Belhaj and Geir Söderin and Japan’s Sachi Amma have fired off a few hard climbs in Spain this month.
On April 12, Belhaj completed his fifth 5.14d with Supernova in Vadiello. Belhaj planned to spend three weeks projecting the route after a slow start to the season left him feeling out of shape. However, he surprised himself by finishing the line on his second attempt. “I just went for it, climbing every section perfectly, even better than when working the moves individually, which has never happened before, and finally found myself on top of the route,” says Belhaj. “This was for the me a new step in redpointing; climbing so perfectly was definitely the key to success.”
Over in Siurana, after 18 days of work, Söderin dispatched Jungle Speed, a short (40 feet) route with a cruxy start. “Say what you will about grades, but sometimes they can be so very important,” says Söderin. “Now I have finally managed to climb the really magical grade 5.14d.” This powerful climb has seen just a handful of ascents since it was first climbed by German Daniel Jung in March 2010. (Below, watch a video of him working the route a few days before his send.)
On April 16, Era Vella fell to Sachi Amma in Margalef. It took Amma just six attempts on this steep, pocketed wall. He describes completing the climb as a “a big fight, but finally I did it!” Era Vella was established by Chris Sharma in May 2010 and quickly saw repeats by Ramón Julian Puigblanque, David Firnenburg, and Adam Ondra. Sasha DiGiulian was the first woman to climb the route in April 2012, as her second 5.14d.
Dates of ascent: April 2013