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AAC Announces 2011 Lyman Spitzer, McNeill-Nott Awards

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2/23/11 – The American Alpine Club has announced its 2011 grant recipients for both the McNeill-Nott Award and the Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award. From the AAC:

About the Lyman Spitzer award: “Through the generous contribution of Lyman Spitzer, Jr.—longtime Club member and lover of the mountains—the AAC initiated the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants Program. The program promotes state-of-the-art, cutting-edge climbs through financial support of small, lightweight climbing teams attempting bold first ascents or difficult repeats of the most challenging routes in the world’s great mountain ranges.”

About the McNeill-Nott award: “With the untimely death of Sue Nott and her partner Karen McNeill on Mt. Foraker in 2006, the AAC and Mountain Hardwear decided to establish the McNeill-Nott Award in their memory. Sue Nott was a long-time member of the AAC. Sue and Karen were both Mountain Hardwear athletes as well as close personal friends who frequently climbed together. The McNeill-Nott Award seeks to preserve the memory and spirit of these two talented and courageous climbers by giving grants to amateur climbers exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small and lightweight teams.”

This year’s recipients include:

Lyman Spitzer

  • Skiy Detray and Andy Hoeckel, who will travel to the Karakorum to attempt a capsule-style first ascent on the Great Trango Tower’s east face

  • Ben Venter, Jake Tipton, and Willy Oppenheim, who will try a first free ascent of the 3,000-foot southwest face on Nafees Cap in the Charakusa Valley in Pakistan

  • David Anderson, Szu-ting Yi, and Eric Salazaar, who aim, in alpine-style, to nab the first ascents of two unclimbed peaks in the Genyen Massif in Sichuan, China

  • Colin Haley and Bjorn-Eivind Artun, who will attempt a first acent on an unclimbed face on the Ogre II in the Karakorum (approached via the Choktoi Glacier)


  • Jesse Burkhardt, Bo White, Boris Lukanov, and Darren Benton, who will attempt to climb Peak Patkhor in Tajikistan’s Gorno-Badakshan region

  • Sam Johnson and Ben Chriswell, who will attempt first ascents on peak 8,300 in Alaska’s Neacola Mountains

About The American Alpine Club –The American Alpine Club provides knowledge and inspiration, conservation and advocacy, and logistical support for the climbing community. The Club awards more than $50,000 every year in the form of climbing, conservation, and research grants to budding adventurers. The AAC also manages a climbers’ campground in Grand Teton National Park, publishes the most sought after annual climbing publications, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and cares for the world’s leading climbing library. Learn about additional programs and become a member at Join the AAC’s online community at