Access Fund Gives $15,000 to Replace Aging Bolts

The bolt-replacement grants were distributed to nine local climbing organizations.

Photo: Kiff Alcocer

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Access Fund, in partnership with the American Alpine Club, has awarded $15,000 in anchor replacement grants to nine local climbing organizations.

“Fixed anchors are a critical piece of gear that allow climbers to safely ascend and descend from climbs around the world,” says Access Fund Northeast Regional Director Mike Morin. “Many bolts placed in the U.S. in the ’80s, and ’90s are nearing the end of their useful lives due to corrosion and need to be replaced. Whether rebolters are replacing multiple bolts on a limestone sport climb, or picking away at bolts placed on traditionally protected granite slabs, we’re proud to do our part to help communities around the country replace these aging anchors.”

This is Access Fund’s eighth consecutive year of awarding grants for anchor replacement. Since 2015 the program has funded the replacement of more than 11,000 bolts and distributed $95,000 in Anchor Replacement Fund grants.

This year’s winning projects are:

1. Black Hills Climbers Coalition (BHCC)
BHCC received $1,000 to support rebolting efforts at Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, Spearfish Canyon, and Victoria Canyon. These granite and limestone destinations draw climbers from across the region.

2. Boulder Climbing Community (BCC)
More than 100,000 climbers climb outside on Colorado’s Front Range every year, according to BCC. A $3,500 grant will support BCC’s rebolting work in popular destinations like Boulder Canyon, Clear Creek Canyon, Rocky Mountain National Park, North Table Mountain, and the Flatirons.

Rebolting in Estes Park, Colorado. Ancestral lands of Tséstho’e, hinono’eino’ biito’owu’, and Núu-agha-tʉvʉ-pʉ̱. (Photo: Jordan Lawrence)

3. Friends of Enchanted Rock (FOER) – Central Texas Climbing Committee
Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is a haven of pink granite domes in central Texas. This $900 grant will support FEOR’s goal of replacing approximately 440 older bolts with brand new stainless steel glue-ins.

4. Gunnison Valley Climbers (GVC)
Colorado’s Gunnison Valley is a wide-ranging area watched over by GVC. The coalition will put its $1,995 grant to work rebolting climbs in Cement Creek, Hartman Rocks, Spring Creek, and Taylor Canyon.

5. Kansas City Climbing Community (KCCC)
The Warsaw area is a top summer destination for Missouri climbers, and a spot in need of support. KCCC members will use their $2,000 grant to replace decades-old hardware with new stainless steel glue-ins that are well suited to the combination of wet conditions and limestone rock found on the shores of Truman Lake.

6. Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition (NACC)
Northern Arizona’s sweeping sandstone walls aren’t on every climber’s radar, but the area boasts incredible climbing. NACC’s $600 grant will support rebolting work at The Pit, a well-traveled sport climbing area near Flagstaff.

7. Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
When you think of long single-pitch sport climbs, you often think of Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. Maintaining those climbs isn’t cheap, which is why Access Fund is proud to support the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative with a $1,500 grant.

8. Southeastern Wyoming Climbers Coalition (SWCC)
Even internationally recognized crack-climbing destinations need fixed hardware replacements. SWCC’s $1,352 grant will support anchor replacement work at the wide-crack Mecca of Vedauwoo.

9. Southeastern Climbers Coalition (SCC)
This year’s SCC grant of $2,153 for rebolting at Denny Cove and Foster Falls builds on a successful long-term partnership in the Southeast. Access Fund and SCC teamed up in 2016 to purchase Denny Cove, a 685-acre just 30 minutes outside of Chattanooga. This year’s rebolting grant supports ongoing anchor replacement work in the region.

Thanks to the American Alpine Club for their sponsorship of the Anchor Replacement Fund program

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