Action Directe: It’s a Trade Route


After only five ascents in 13 years, Germany’s Action Directe (5.14d) has been redpointed three times in a little over a week. According to, the latest to succeed on the limestone testpiece is Germany’s Markus Bock. The 26-year-old is the fourth German to climb the route, which was established by the late Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and is considered the benchmark 9a (5.14d).

Earlier this month, Rich Simpson of Great Britain and Dai Koyamada of Japan redpointed Action Directe within two days. Less than a week later, Simpson made the second ascent of Unplugged, a Markus Bock 5.14d, also in the Frankenjura.Comment on this story